I have a lawnmower blenny and a ton of snails but they won't touch the stuff for me if it is more than a short thread of HA. I pulled out a gallon worth of HA yesterday mostly off the sand bed and then I tested my PO4 again and still didn't get any kind of reading on it at all. I was using the Elos test kit and then I realized that I should be getting some color just to read zero for marine water. I checked the back of the box and found that the test had expired.....and it had been expired since I first ordered it online so this entire time when I thought my PO4 was good I actually have had no idea. I am hoping that my new checker shows up next week and in the meantime I am still dosing vodka and I also have some Phosphate Rx on the way.
I purchased my second filter sock today, changed it out, hosed it off, and currently have it soaking in a bleach water solution. I also cleaned and removed all the detritus from my sump so and put in some saltwater that I had been making since yesterday to replace that water. I also cleaned and emptied my skimmer cup for the second time this week and added new, well rinsed carbon to the sump as well. I will be taking my vortechs apart between today and tomorrow to clean them up and I am going to relocate my MP40w slightly to try and get a little better random flow I feel that my MP10w is fine where it is currently located for now.
I used Marco Rocks in the past and in my personal experience I always had hair algae issues. In my opinion its takes forever to cycle properly and become full live rock. What about your clean up crew? Any snails or maybe a sea hair they do wonders for hair algae.
I rinse GAC with RO water. Several times. That way I clean it off, but don't "waste" it with the stuff tap water contains.
Phosphate Rx turns the phosphate into a solid, to be trapped in a fine micron filter sock or exported via protein skimmer.
Public aquariums blast their filter socks with a garden hose. Hobbyists sometimes soak them in 10:1 bleachwater solution, then rinse them well in dechlorinator and air them out to dry.
I have a 75 gallon tank.
Reef Octopus skimmer and biopellet reactor when I get the replacement part in (they sent the wrong part to me, apologized and did not charge me and have another one on the way)
48 3watt cree LEDs running over my tank from Rapid LED
30 gallon sump with refugium full of chaeto that I prune frequently
I did a tank restart in january and so all the rock and sand that is in it has been in there since then (50lbs of marco rock and probably 75lbs of reef flake sand it's about a 2 1/2" sand bed.
My PO4 is currently reading 0 with all the drop test kits that I have but I imagine that the hair algae is sucking it all up and distorting my reading. They were back ordered on my hanna checker so it may not be here until next week but in the meantime I have started dosing very small amounts of vodka nightly and it seems to be having a positive effect on the algae while improving the growth and color of my 3 corals that are alive.
On Monday I got an alarm that my tank temperature had exceeded 83 degrees which was weird since it wasn't that hot outside even. so I turned down my allowed temperature on my reefkeeper, turned down the thermostat temperature on my heater and went to hook up my chiller that I acquired by trading my old T5 light setup for. Well long story short one of the feed line fittings broke so I also am waiting for one of those in the mail as well.
If I use any tap water what so ever I will use seachem's prime. Melev do you just rinse your carbon off in RO water or do you have another recomendation?
With the phosphate Rx how does it remove the phosphate IE is it something that ends up getting skimmed out or is it mostly biological?
since adding the additional filtration to the tank though I am starting to notice a difference and I will purchase another filter this weekend sometime so I can rotate and thoroughly clean the one currently in the sump. For any type of filter sock what can I use to clean it effectively without damaging the material itself or adding anything harmful to the tank?
Sorry to hear about the series of issues you've encountered.
In regards to your algae woes, it will come to down to phosphate, light bulb age, removal of detritus in the rockwork, and how many snails are in the tank.
I'd immediately run fresh (well-rinsed) carbon, and add Seachem's Prime to the tank. That will lock up ammonia, chlorine and chloramines, especially since you used tap water in the emergency.
If PO4 is up as you suspect, use Phosphate Rx to get that back under control. http://melevsreef.biz/catalog/blue-l...a-phosphate-rx
Get a bunch of new hungry snails. Pull out all the nuisance algae you can by hand. When did you last replace your light bulbs?
Do you have more specific information about your aquarium and the equipment you have that I can review?
melev- I hadn't been cleaning them with any type of solution I had been just wiping them out every 1-2 months what vinegar to water ratio do you recommend? and do I need to soak the buckets or just spray and wipe them down?
I read that last week actually very good write up and read. I have been refraining from dosing carbon so I actually just started doing it again last night after testing for stray voltage. Have you heard of any bad salt batches by Kent? I am halfway through this bucket but I don't think I could say comfortably that I wasn't seeing some dwindling problems before I started this one to blame a salt batch.
I have two different alk test kits that I test with that are both within the same ballpark figure my Elos reads a more specific 8.5 and API reads 9. Salinity is a little low at 1.022-1.023 which I test with a refractometer that I re calibrate every few weeks with a 35 ppt solution
Switched to new LEDs from HO T5s about 3-4 months ago. Corals had been bleaching in the same pattern as a RTN case but very slowly in comparison so after doing some research I assumed that it was due to lack of lighting (though they didn't SEEM to brown) and gradually turned the lighting up from about 40% to about 75% which I just completed about 2 weeks ago. My sps had already bleached and gone by this point.
My monti cap is still encouraging me as it is one of my favorite corals of all time so any growth and progress is currently all revolving around that. There are NO soft corals in my tank.
There are a number of things that could be the cause, and it's going to take some back and forth to determine the exact cause.
RE: buckets. Do you clean the buckets from time to time with vinegar and water, or bleach-water? At least once every six months would be wise. I've never had problems from salt buckets. We usually seek out HDPE containers, as those are safe -- they are called food-grade safe.
I just posted an article on the front page of RA a few days ago where a person had a bad batch of carbon damage their corals, a brand that had a batch recall last year.
Alkalinity and salinity measurements should be double checked and verified with a second method, to make sure you're on target.
Lighting - age of bulbs, exposure of potential UV in the tank, duration of light in the tank per day; these are all things to consider to see if any or all are causing a decline.
Were are the pics???? Lets see pics.
the duncan is very full and happy, the other reason I moved it was to get it away from the cleaner shrimp. It is very fat right now without the shrimp pulling food away from it but the big thing was I wanted to get it in the tank so I have an idea of flow rates and their affect on this coral so I know how much too much is. I have been reading and researching information on dipping sps before placing them into the tank (a lot from your website.) I have a clean slate to start with and I don't want to mess with that. I am absolutely looking to add staghorn, acros, millepora, birdsnest, and perhaps a picollapora but unfortunately I have no LFS that carry sps coral so odds are I will either have to head to either atlanta or knoxville of order them online if anyone has any reputable websites/stores in those areas they have experience with?
The Clown Goby can be destructive, so I'd also consider sending him to a different tank. How's the Duncan doing so far?
Ok, I have alkalinity right at 8 now and salinity at 1.024 (still working with it.) I have moved my duncan coral back over to the main tank again. I am still debating on whether to include any other LPS though. I have 3 good frags from my old branching hammer and I know I am going to get rid of 2 for sure, but I am not sure if I want to add one or try to do mostly sps. The acans I was trying to save have puffed back up but are carrying some nasty hitchhikers (Bubble algae, and some other type of macro algae) so I am not sure about them either. I also am thinking of finding a new home for my yellow clown goby since I know how much they "love" sps. any thoughts on any of this?
Agree with Midnight, just bump up your Alkalinity (dkH) to around 8 and you're good to go. Dosing anything else isn't necessary at this time, as you don't have anything pulling it out livestock-wise.
Hope you have good luck on the sps set up, I am intrested in hearing how it turns out. I am wanting to do an sps and Lps as well. What are the proper parameters for an sps tank?
Dosing a two part right know would raise both alk and cal. Looks like you currently just need to raise alk. And then your SG should be 1.025-1.026, topping off with saltwater is probably the best way to do this.
also to increase flow randomness I have a Vortech MP10 on the way to run alongside my MP40 which will help with prefered SPS flow
Nicely done, and thanks for sharing your blog with us. It looks really clean, an excellent restart.
The thing that has impressed me the most is that these things run so cool. After hours of running them they are still cool to the touch with no fan where as this ebay one that I have over my frag tank puts off a little heat. I guess that is the difference of quality vs affordability.
the lights look good, looks like you used the same heat sinks i did, i really like the sinks it gives the build a nice look over the ones that arent anodized also the built in mounting rails and channel for the splash guard are handy
well I literally just finished with getting the leds placed and I am hoping to get them wired up tomorrow during the annual turkey day cooking wait. I will hopefully hit they tank Saturday morning early and get it done by that afternoon and start filling it up Sunday. I need to get the back glass painted, the inside cleaned, all inhabitants safely moved to a temporary tank, re-aquascaped, and filled and if I can get all that done by sunday I will be a happy camper. I think i will try the spray bottle of vinegar and water/soak and see what happens, I am mostly just wanting to clean the back glass the front is not a big issue to clean but the back glass I can't get anything to put a dent in the coralline on it.