Some time ago there was an article here about Melev's new salt water mixing barrel he built. I was quite impressed by it and am now considering something like it. However, I can no longer find the article. I would appreciate any help that can be provided.As for me I haven't posted in a while...recently bought a new house with a office (fish-room) that I am outfitting with a 75 g reef tank, 40 g sump, 10 g gravity ATO and finally a 20 g refugium (last).I picked up a 55 gal food-quality barrel
I am getting closer to actually putting water in my first tank every day but seems I have to stop and ask you guys a question. Today I am wondering what ideas you have to make sure the aquarium heaters stay in place in the sump. The little stick-on suction cups do not work worth a flip. I thought about sticking some silicon in there but wanted to seek advice before I did.
As always, thanks for the advice.
The light that came with my 55g used tank supports two 55 watt power compact whites and two 55 watt blue actinic bulbs but has an additional light bar of some kind running along the back edge that I would like help identifying. It is a thin little tube and emits a bluish lite that almost looks like a black light but probably isn't. It is also wired separately from the main lights.
The light has no labels but the guy I bought it from said it was a coravue knock-off and that he was
Thanks to all for your advice in recent past. I have completed all the plumbing work and sump building work as previously helped and suggested by you guys.
My question is around where in my sump should my float valve go. I have a three section sump: a water return, a section for the protein skimmer, and a section for the return pump; and since I am new to this have no clue which section will suffer first from the lower water levels as evaporation occurs. Does this question make sense?