I know Marc did a very extensive write-up on using a PAR meter to analyze light bulbs; however, can a PAR meter be effectively used to determine WHEN to change metal halide bulbs?
I know that we must pay attention to not only intensity of the light in the tank, but also to the color (or color shift) as the bulb ages.
My thought is to buy a PAR meter to see if I really need to change the bulbs at 6-12 months like the manufacturers suggest. I run 3 400W MHs on a sunrise/sunset
Ok, I have everything plumbed and set up on my new 162 gallon in wall tank. I am about to add the substrate. I am concerned about the water line. I have a sumo, so the water line only move up or down if I open or restrict the drain coming from the overflow. I attached the wall wood trim around the tank, filled nail holes, paint, etc, and whe I have the overflow drain fully open, the water line is about 1 inch below the trim. I have to back the drain off about 30% to get the return pump to raise
The family and I took a drive down to Seattle yesterday...she went shopping for the kids, and I took Serene, my 8 year old daughter, to Salt Water City. I ahd read some good reviews on the web. When I got there, I was impressed with their coral selection. They only do saltwater, which is noce as well.
One cool thing, was they have a section where you can buy from $10, $20, $30, $40, and $50 frags tanks. This is a good way for beginners to try differnet corals w/o breaking the bank.
Ok, I am no fluid dynamics engineer, so I am totally confused about what to do for returns from the 1" PVC coming out of my overflow.
I have a 1-1/2" drain line with just a couple 90s....manufacturer says its rated for 1600 gph max. I have 1" return PVC with a Pan World Pump rated for 2000 gph. I have about 4 90s and 2 45s, a couple true union valves, and about 6' of static height. I also have a T off the return, feeding a small amount of water to the refugium...valve