I have a used 100gal a day unit that I will be selling. I bet I can beat Marc's price for a new one.
I'm also selling a top-it-off kit now. It's not on my site yet, but coming soon.
Cool! And, I definitely would prefer the TDS meter to be inline. Even at $170+$50 your unit still comes in cheaper than all the others, plus I know where to find you if something goes wrong. I definitely see what you mean about different surface tension and different bacteria and slime. I guess for now then this is just an extended system functionality test. In order to complete my system I still need: 1.) The VorTech's 2.) The lights (I think I've got somebody that's going to give me there so... we'll see) 3.) The ATO 4.) The RO/DI 5.) The rockwork 6.) The sand 7.) The fish and coral! So really I have a ways to go, but taking it slow lets me see all my mistakes and missteps before (hopefully) they turn into another tank disaster. Not to mention that I'm a college student on a budget that only has just so much wiggle room to save for luxury items (although that will be changing soon with my pending graduation with a dual B.S. in Mechanical and Aerospace Engineering and my soon-to-be-wife's graduation from medical school!).
The idea that the plumbing will mature with freshwater for now to reduce bubbles later won't be true since you'll be changing to saltwater with a different surface tension. Whenever you do change it to 35ppt, the clock will have to start over as that slime & bacteria is saltwater friendly. I do sell a dual TDS meter as an add-on for $50. It's the nice one you see on the front of the 150gpd system in my shop. I also offer the $25 hand-held version if you prefer that. I do full product support when required.
Originally Posted by melev You need to transition this to saltwater, whether you drain it and refill it with saltwater or add salt to the existing water if it's RO/DI. From that point forward, it takes 14 days for everything to develop a bio-film. I doubt you'll need more baffles. Perhaps you'll have to slow down your return pump some, but that's about it. P.s. I won't be transitioning to saltwater until I am able to purchase an RO/DI system. That won't be for another couple months, but it seems premature to buy 100 gallons of water at $1/gal. and have been able to come out with an RO/DI system if I had just waited for a little bit and purchased the RO/DI system for $50-100 more than the initial cost of water... Actually, since you sell RO/DI systems, does your smaller system come with an inline TDS meter? I'm currently trying to figure out what filtration system to buy and am considering several different ones. However, having one from you would make it much easier to trouble shoot problems than purchasing it elsewhere (say BRS or Spectrapure). Any suggestions on this would be great, thanks Marc!
Okay, sounds good. Slowing down the return line sounds like a good plan.
You need to transition this to saltwater, whether you drain it and refill it with saltwater or add salt to the existing water if it's RO/DI. From that point forward, it takes 14 days for everything to develop a bio-film. I doubt you'll need more baffles. Perhaps you'll have to slow down your return pump some, but that's about it.
Originally Posted by melev If you are worried about bubbles now, just wait until you have saltwater in there. And yes, it takes up to 14 days for everything to slime over and then you can look at any needed adjustments to correct microbubbles. First I'd like to say, when I woke up this morning the problem seemed markedly better. So in all likelihood it has something to do with the fact that this is new plumbing and I should just keep the water test going for another week and a half (that's more a question than a statement)? Also, was I supposed to be comforted or concerned about the clarity of the water once I add salt? Is salt less likely to have a bubble problem since it's more buoyant? Some of the solutions I've thought about adopting include installing additional baffles which I'm sure would work, but I think would be overkill compared to what I've seen. Perhaps I'm just being a worry wart and this problem will just self cure once the plumbing lines get broken in (the skimmer was used for over a month before so I think it should be broken in already).
If you are worried about bubbles now, just wait until you have saltwater in there. And yes, it takes up to 14 days for everything to slime over and then you can look at any needed adjustments to correct microbubbles.
Yeah, I hear you. I did find out that if you double click an attachment, you can change the size in your entry. Large is really too big, but medium worked out well for a different blog I had to edit. 1/4" is normally used, but since you glued this over glass 1/8" is fine.
Blown76mav, glad to see you around! Just thought I'd mention that GE I is FDA approved for food safe storage (which essentially means reef safe), it's just not as strong as the Momentive 100 Series (formerly a GE product listed as aquarium safe). So I'm not saying you "can't" use the GE I or GE II, afterall, plenty of people claim to be using both problem free; however, I did a bunch of research on this (including several calls to Momentive) and I feel like Momentive 100 Series silicone is the best option. I'd use GE I in a pinch, but given the option to order Momentive or just pick up some GE I, I'd pass on the GE I. I still feel terrible about what ended up happening to the critters in my tank and as far as the fish are concerned I believe that the GE II was to blame. To this day my friends at school and my fiance feel the need to remind me of this disaster (probably a good thing since it keeps me focused on the safety of my once and future critters).
Thanks Marc, I didn't see the comment you had made about using 1/4" acrylic before I got this totally installed... opps. Anyway, I'm glad you and everybody else seems to have really liked it! Also, since there's no way to rotate the images I may go back through this post and upload all the pictures again to replace them. It bugs me to have to rotate my head just to look at my own post... lol.
That overflow came out really nicely. You did a great job with it. I did some checking and I don't see how to change the images you attached. There's no option to rotate uploaded images, so you have to have them the right direction prior to uploading them.
Sorry still gonna say GE I is ok to use, been using it for over 6 years no problems. The ONLY time I've even heard of problems is with the GE II. Any 100% silicone is the same and as long as there isn't a anti mold agent in it, its ok.
Also, my fish made it to my friend's house just fine and lived in his tank for awhile. However, one of them got stuck on a heater and... The other lived for a good bit longer before meeting some mysterious demise at the hand of my friend's tank sitter. So yeah... use the right silicone the first time!
I should add to this. While GE I may have the code mentioned above, Momentive 100 series silicone is far preferable. Momentive 108 is clear and Momentive 103 is black. They both carry a max tensile strength of 400 psi and a shear strength of 200 psi. This is the only silicone I would recommend that anybody use. All the GE stuff is just asking for trouble. For the sake of reference here's the link to the datasheet for this stuff: http://www.momentiveperformancemater...eets/1773.html Again, don't use GE I or GE II. Since making this post over a year ago I have learned a good bit about different silicones and I suggest you guys let my experience be enough to teach you what to do and what not to do. Please don't do to your fish what I nearly did to mine!
I like my Penductors, but the anti-siphon holes I drilled move my sandbed to the point that I had to ziptie on a deflector plate so my bommie wasn't affected any more. You probably do need the Mag 9.5 for those to work, but after observation you might decide to install a ball valve to reduce the flow somewhat. You'll have to decide that for yourself.
Originally Posted by melev I just watched all of your videos. Here's some thoughts: 1) The sounds you are hearing will be lessened with saltwater. Freshwater is noisier. 2) The drain into the refugium should be an elbow at the water's surface, half submerged. That way air breathes out of the pipe and water pours gently, rippling the surface. 3) In a power outage, everything is off. That means the body of the skimmer above the normal water level will drain into the sump, as might any reactors full of water. You need to make sure the sump can hold all water drainage, not just the tank. 4) I usually recommend anti-siphon holes, but with Penductors that creates jets of water that will literally move the sandbed. For now, it appears you're sump can hold that water. 5) The Mag pump needs some type of sponge material placed under it, or you can make silicone feet. 6) Congrats, you're nearly ready to start up your reef. So a few questions and comments. 1.) One, thanks for the idea about how to put the drain line into the refugium. 2.) Although I think I will have more than enough left over volume (and a good bit to spare) I definitely need to simulate a full on power outage where I turn off the skimmer as well. I think I'll wait to do that until I get a chance to put the stand underneath the skimmer (that way it will be even closer to the real deal). However, until I get my Eheim or Mag 9.5 I won't really know how much drainage I'll get back into the tank so... a full on simulation is a little ways off. 3.) Could I try drilling the anti-siphon holes anyway and just turn them sideways? Also, what do you think about Penductors? I am planning on using them and I know you do, but what's your honest opinion about how effective they really are. At 550 gph I just don't know. I'm thinking about running a test where I run some airline from and air pump into the return pump's inlet and then taking video footage with and without the Penductors. I don't know if that would be a totally fair test, but what do you think?
I just watched all of your videos. Here's some thoughts: 1) The sounds you are hearing will be lessened with saltwater. Freshwater is noisier. 2) The drain into the refugium should be an elbow at the water's surface, half submerged. That way air breathes out of the pipe and water pours gently, rippling the surface. 3) In a power outage, everything is off. That means the body of the skimmer above the normal water level will drain into the sump, as might any reactors full of water. You need to make sure the sump can hold all water drainage, not just the tank. 4) I usually recommend anti-siphon holes, but with Penductors that creates jets of water that will literally move the sandbed. For now, it appears you're sump can hold that water. 5) The Mag pump needs some type of sponge material placed under it, or you can make silicone feet. 6) Congrats, you're nearly ready to start up your reef.
Wow, I think Shawn and I are the only living souls left on the site this weekend! Where is everybody!?!? Must be a big expo this weekend. Shawn, I'll have to look into the Eheims. I know about the sicce and Tunze pumps that are supposed to be super quite, but the Eheims are a lot cheaper and from the stuff I've been reading they're super quite just like you said! Thanks for the tip!
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