Astraea:
In my experience, I have found these to be the best 'base' of my CUC, along with Turbo snails. They eat just about everything in regards to algae, and keeping the glass and rock clean of diatom and algae. They are hard workers, and I have found them to do a great job.
The Astraea Conehead Snail has a unique shell and a ravenous appetite for algae. Unlike many bottom dwellers that are dressed in drab colors to better camouflage themselves against the sand bottoms, Astraea tecta boasts a pyramid-shape shell with beautiful, olive green coloration. Since some individuals have projections on the shell that give it a star-like outline, the Astraea Conehead is also known as the Astraea Star Snail. Though interesting to observe in your home aquarium, the Astraea Conehead Snail serves a greater function of cleaning algae-covered live rock. It is very adept at keeping your aquarium clean. In fact, this small herbivore prefers to feed on nuisance hair algae, as well as cyanobacteria and diatoms. Some aquarists also report that the Astraea Conehead Snail actually consumes the entire hair algae structure, which helps prevent immediate further algae growth.
The Astraea Conehead Snail prefers well-established aquariums with ample hiding places and sufficient room to roam. In addition to eating algae off of your live rock, this member of the Astraeinae family will also clean your aquarium glass. However, the Astraea Conehead Snail is not known to be climbers like other smaller-shelled snail species. Care needs to be taken to observe the daily activities of this hungry snail since it is unable to right itself if it falls or is knocked upside down. That is one of the cons of the Astrea, if you are not there to right them, they quickly become prey to your hermits, whether they are hungry, or looking for a new home.
Like other invertebrates, the Astrae Conehead Snail is sensitive to high nitrate levels and will not tolerate copper-based medications. The Astraea Conehead Snail requires a gradual acclimation period, preferably the drip acclimation method, often over two hours, since it cannot tolerate even minute changes in water parameters. If sufficient food levels are not present, supplement the diet with blanched spinach or lettuce and vegetable-based tablet foods.
The Astraea Conehead Snail prefers well-established aquariums with ample hiding places and sufficient room to roam. In addition to eating algae off of your live rock, this member of the Astraeinae family will also clean your aquarium glass. However, the Astraea Conehead Snail is not known to be climbers like other smaller-shelled snail species. Care needs to be taken to observe the daily activities of this hungry snail since it is unable to right itself if it falls or is knocked upside down. That is one of the cons of the Astrea, if you are not there to right them, they quickly become prey to your hermits, whether they are hungry, or looking for a new home.
Like other invertebrates, the Astrae Conehead Snail is sensitive to high nitrate levels and will not tolerate copper-based medications. The Astraea Conehead Snail requires a gradual acclimation period, preferably the drip acclimation method, often over two hours, since it cannot tolerate even minute changes in water parameters. If sufficient food levels are not present, supplement the diet with blanched spinach or lettuce and vegetable-based tablet foods.
Nassarius:
Nassarius snail
Tongan Super-sized Nassarius
These are small little guys that stay mostly buried in your substrate. They keep the sand bed stirred and clean and will track down uneaten food. They are amusing to watch as when food hits the water, they start popping up out of the sand like a zombie uprising, and scurrying around looking for food.
The Nassarius snail is a small scavenger with an oval spiral shell that resembles an olive pit, with a long tube-like siphon that protrudes from the end of the shell. One of the most ideal scavengers and detritus eaters, these snails are perfect for the reef aquarium, quickly consuming detritus, uneaten food, decaying organics, and fish waste. Nassarius Snails like to bury themselves in the sand, which will help maintain adequate oxygen levels in the substrate. They do well in a deep sandbed. Also, if turned over, they can quickly upright themselves giving them protection from predators.
The Cerith has proved itself in my tank to wear multiple hats. I have seen them bury in the sand, graze the rocks and the glass, as well as to graze the substrate of diatom. They seem to want to do it all. Mine are quite large, so the smaller ones may like to bury more than mine do, but I see mine all over the tank, doing multiple tasks.
Tiny Ceriths are good at cleaning that 1" area where the substrate and the glass touch, devouring the algae that grows there.
Don't let the Cerith Snail's small adult size fool you. As well as having a gorgeous, elongated spiral shell, this active scavenger can consume large amounts of detritus, uneaten food, fish waste, and algae. Plus, this species of the Cerithium genus often burrows in your aquarium sand and helps maintain adequate oxygen levels in the substrate. Native to the Caribbean and Eastern Pacific off the coast of Mexico, the Cerith Snail does best in larger, well-established reef systems with deep sand beds. This voracious feeder is most active at night. In fact, breeding pairs of Cerith Snails will lay their eggs on your aquarium glass just after dark in long, stringy curves. However, since these eggs take a while to develop, they are often consumed by other tankmates or removed from the water column by filtration before the eggs have a chance to hatch. The Cerith Snail is extremely difficult to breed in captivity. Not only is determining the sexes difficult, but the water parameters required to do so are unknown.
Like other invertebrates, the Cerith Snail is sensitive to high nitrate levels and copper based medications. It also requires a gradual acclimation process, preferably the drip acclimation method, since it is sensitive to even minute changes in water parameters.
The Cerith snail is a small scavenger with an elongated spiral shell that is usually black with tiny white dots covering the entire shell. One of the most ideal scavengers, detritus eaters, and algae eaters these snails are perfect for the reef aquarium, quickly devouring detritus, uneaten food, decaying organics, fish waste, and several types of nuisance algae. Cerith Snails will often bury themselves in the sand, which will help maintain adequate oxygen levels in the substrate. Great multi-function snails.
Like other invertebrates, the Cerith Snail is sensitive to high nitrate levels and copper based medications. It also requires a gradual acclimation process, preferably the drip acclimation method, since it is sensitive to even minute changes in water parameters.
The Cerith snail is a small scavenger with an elongated spiral shell that is usually black with tiny white dots covering the entire shell. One of the most ideal scavengers, detritus eaters, and algae eaters these snails are perfect for the reef aquarium, quickly devouring detritus, uneaten food, decaying organics, fish waste, and several types of nuisance algae. Cerith Snails will often bury themselves in the sand, which will help maintain adequate oxygen levels in the substrate. Great multi-function snails.
Cerith eggs:
Turbo:
The Turbo snail seems to be comparable to the Astraea snail in term of his cleanup tasks.
The Turbo Snail is extremely popular among reef hobbyists, since it quickly eliminates large amounts of nuisance algae. It is particularly fond of hair algae and will consume mass quantities of it and other algae off your live rock and aquarium glass. Also known as the Turban or Top Shell Snail, Turbo fluctuosa has a thick, top- or turban-shaped shell with an iridescent interior. The Turbo Snail is native to the Gulf of California off the coast of Mexico. An excellent member of your aquarium's clean up crew, the Turbo Snail thrives in crevices and holes in natural reefs. In the home aquarium, the Turbo Snail needs ample hiding places and large spaces to graze. Some reef aquarists prefer to keep the Turbo Snail in aquariums with well-secured rockwork since this active herbivore is known to bulldoze loose rocks in search of food.
The peaceful Turbo Snail should not be kept with aggressive tankmates that can quickly overcome this slow-moving creature. If algae levels are insufficient, supplement the diet of the Turbo Snail with dried seaweed. Also, adequate calcium levels are required to help this member of the Turbinidae family build its protective shell. Like other invertebrates, the Turbo Snail is very sensitive to copper-based medications and high nitrate levels. To acclimate the Turbo Snail, employ the drip-acclimation method since it is intolerant of even the smallest fluctuations in water parameters.
The peaceful Turbo Snail should not be kept with aggressive tankmates that can quickly overcome this slow-moving creature. If algae levels are insufficient, supplement the diet of the Turbo Snail with dried seaweed. Also, adequate calcium levels are required to help this member of the Turbinidae family build its protective shell. Like other invertebrates, the Turbo Snail is very sensitive to copper-based medications and high nitrate levels. To acclimate the Turbo Snail, employ the drip-acclimation method since it is intolerant of even the smallest fluctuations in water parameters.
Trochus:
The Banded Trochus Snail is touted by aquarists of all experience levels for numerous reasons. Like other members of the Trochidae family, the Banded Trochus is easy to care for and very adept at working as your aquarium's cleanup crew. The Banded Trochus Snail normally has a black foot that is an off white/tan color on the underside of the foot. It boasts a pale gray, top- or pyramid-shaped shell. Thanks to the maroon stripes or bands on its shell, the Banded Trochus Snail adds a unique flair to any marine system. Also known as the Trochus, Turban or Top Shell, or Turban Snail, this species of the Trochus genus is the true Banded Trochus Snail from Indonesia. Perhaps what many aquarists appreciate the most is the ease with which Banded Trochus Snails seem to breed in the home aquarium. It reproduces sexually by releasing gametes into the water column. The gametes appear as a cloudy, white substance. Breeding activity is usually sparked by changes in lighting or water conditions. After the gametes join, they develop into free-swimming larvae that eventually settle into your aquarium substrate and develop into mature snails over a period of a few months.
The Banded Trochus Snail is well suited for reef aquariums. As a general rule, you can keep one snail for every two to three gallons of aquarium water. The Banded Trochus Snail is very peaceful and because of its shell shape, it is not easily eaten by crabs. Unlike its close relative, the Tectus Snail, the Banded Trochus Snail can right itself when knocked over.
The Banded Trochus Snail does best in a well-established aquarium with ample hiding places and room to forage. It naturally feeds on algae, cyanobacteria, and diatoms amongst your live rock, substrate, and aquarium glass. The Banded Trochus is also an effective film algae eater. However, they only passively graze on other nuisance algae, such as hair algae.
Like other invertebrates, Trochus sp. is sensitive to high nitrate levels and intolerant of copper-based medications. It requires a gradual acclimation process, preferably the drip acclimation method. If food levels are insufficient in your aquarium, supplement their diet with dried seaweed. Though most Banded Trochus Snails seem to breed easily, there are no distinguishing characteristics between males and females.
The Banded Trochus Snail is well suited for reef aquariums. As a general rule, you can keep one snail for every two to three gallons of aquarium water. The Banded Trochus Snail is very peaceful and because of its shell shape, it is not easily eaten by crabs. Unlike its close relative, the Tectus Snail, the Banded Trochus Snail can right itself when knocked over.
The Banded Trochus Snail does best in a well-established aquarium with ample hiding places and room to forage. It naturally feeds on algae, cyanobacteria, and diatoms amongst your live rock, substrate, and aquarium glass. The Banded Trochus is also an effective film algae eater. However, they only passively graze on other nuisance algae, such as hair algae.
Like other invertebrates, Trochus sp. is sensitive to high nitrate levels and intolerant of copper-based medications. It requires a gradual acclimation process, preferably the drip acclimation method. If food levels are insufficient in your aquarium, supplement their diet with dried seaweed. Though most Banded Trochus Snails seem to breed easily, there are no distinguishing characteristics between males and females.
In my 75-gallon tank, as of this moment, I have:
5 Astraeas
8 Turbos
5 Cerith
2 Nassarius
25 tiny Blue Legged Hermit Crabs
4 Zebra Hermits
8 Red Legged Hermits
3 Scarlett Reef Crabs
2 Peppermint Shrimp
1 Cleaner Shrimp
1 Emerald Crab
1 Serpent Star
I should point out that I have a very shallow sandbed, so I try not to use anything that needs a lot of sand to survive.
That is just to show the diversity that can be used, and I don't have just one kind. This mix seems to keep my tank clean, and keep the algae at bay. I might be adding a few more soon, but I don't have any major issues as of now. I should point out that different tanks require different CUCs. Heavier feeders with higher phosphates might need more CUC to keep the algae under control. A tank with algae grazing fish, light feeding, and running granular ferric oxide (GFO) in a reactor, might need less CUC to get by. It is a case by case basis. As Marc (melev) backs his dump-truck of food into his tank every day, he may need hundreds of hermits and snails....
There are a few other snails such as cowries and conchs that you might want to look into, but I have covered the basic snails above.
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