The following contains some info on commonly used shrimp in the reef tank. Shrimp can be useful inverts, as they are good scavengers and keep the tank cleaned up. Some can be of benefit to your fish, as they can pick parasites or dead tissue off of them, and keep them 'clean.'
Peppermint:
I have had a few of these in my tank over the years, and they seems to be a decent cleaner. He scavenges off the substrate and rocks, and picks around the coral looking for food. Mine has been a pest at times, as he likes to run around and 'dance' on my corals and zoo's, making them close up. I rarely see him, as he prefers to hide out during the day and come out at night. If you are looking for an ornamental shrimp that you will get pleasure watching during the lighting period, you might want to look elsewhere, such as a skunk cleaner shrimp.
The Peppermint Shrimp is best known for its natural ability to manage nuisance Aiptasia, or glass anemones. Keep in mind that some individual Peppermint Shrimp are better at managing aiptasia while others may not be interested in aiptasia at all. Though considered part of the "cleaner" grouping of shrimp, Lysmata wurdemanni is more of a scavenger. The Peppermint Shrimp picks its way around your aquarium and live rock to consume detritus, uneaten food, and decomposing organic material. This ornamental member of the Hippolytidae family is brightly colored with a creamy white body striped with several thin and distinct longitudinal red bands. Also known as the Veined or Caribbean Cleaner Shrimp, the Peppermint Shrimp is sometimes confused with its Pacific cousin, Rhynchocinetes durbanensis (Camelback Shrimp). However, that shrimp has a pointed nose and inter-spaced white stripes over its body. In the wild, the Peppermint Shrimp is usually found in the vertical shafts of the reef. Some even take up residence in the core of pipe sponges. The Peppermint Shrimp does best in home aquariums with live rock, ample places to hide, as well as open areas to scavenge.
The Peppermint Shrimp is very social and peaceful towards most reef inhabitants. Like other invertebrates, the Peppermint Shrimp cannot tolerate copper-based medications or high nitrate levels. It also requires supplemental iodine to encourage proper molting of its carapace. In addition to what it obtains from scavenging, the diet of the Peppermint Shrimp should consist of most types of prepared foods and the occasional pieces of fresh fish.
The Peppermint Shrimp has been successfully bred by commercial fish farms, and can be bred in the home aquarium. Rearing the larvae requires specialized feeds and care outside of the display aquarium.
The Western Atlantic Peppermint Shrimp complex Lysmata wurdemanni has been reclassified in 2006 by Andrew L. Rhyne and Junda Lin based on their morphology and color pattern. See the article here. In general, peppermint shrimp from different regions can easily be identified to species level by their color patterns. Our peppermint shrimp from either the Florida Keys or the Gulf of Mexico and are most often Lysmata boggessi, a species proven to consume Aiptaisa (Rhyne et al. 2004). We occasionally receive other species from the Lysmata wurdemanni complex, we have consulted with Dr. Rhyne and he has confirmed that all species of peppermint shrimp he has tested in the laboratory consume Aiptasia. Differences in exact collection location often dictates what species we have in stock. The exact species that will be shipped to your door is one of the following listed below. The exact species you receive will vary based on the time of year, weather conditions, freight space, and inventory levels. All of the following species make ideal scavengers and prey on the pest anemone Aiptasia pallida.
Florida Bay and Atlantic – L. wurdemanni
Caribbean – L. ankeri
Florida Bay and Gulf of Mexico – L. boggessi
South Western Florida Keys – L. rafa
The Peppermint Shrimp is very social and peaceful towards most reef inhabitants. Like other invertebrates, the Peppermint Shrimp cannot tolerate copper-based medications or high nitrate levels. It also requires supplemental iodine to encourage proper molting of its carapace. In addition to what it obtains from scavenging, the diet of the Peppermint Shrimp should consist of most types of prepared foods and the occasional pieces of fresh fish.
The Peppermint Shrimp has been successfully bred by commercial fish farms, and can be bred in the home aquarium. Rearing the larvae requires specialized feeds and care outside of the display aquarium.
The Western Atlantic Peppermint Shrimp complex Lysmata wurdemanni has been reclassified in 2006 by Andrew L. Rhyne and Junda Lin based on their morphology and color pattern. See the article here. In general, peppermint shrimp from different regions can easily be identified to species level by their color patterns. Our peppermint shrimp from either the Florida Keys or the Gulf of Mexico and are most often Lysmata boggessi, a species proven to consume Aiptaisa (Rhyne et al. 2004). We occasionally receive other species from the Lysmata wurdemanni complex, we have consulted with Dr. Rhyne and he has confirmed that all species of peppermint shrimp he has tested in the laboratory consume Aiptasia. Differences in exact collection location often dictates what species we have in stock. The exact species that will be shipped to your door is one of the following listed below. The exact species you receive will vary based on the time of year, weather conditions, freight space, and inventory levels. All of the following species make ideal scavengers and prey on the pest anemone Aiptasia pallida.
Florida Bay and Atlantic – L. wurdemanni
Caribbean – L. ankeri
Florida Bay and Gulf of Mexico – L. boggessi
South Western Florida Keys – L. rafa
Blood/Fire:
The Blood Red Fire Shrimp, also known as Blood Shrimp, Fire Shrimp, or Scarlet Cleaner Shrimp, is one of the most popular shrimp in the aquarium hobby. It has a blood-red body with white spots and long white antennae. Depending on which region of the Indo-Pacific from which it originates, it may have the white dots just on its carapace, or covering its entire body. The Blood Red Fire Shrimp prefers a habitat providing it with a cave or overhang where the lighting is not too intense. While it will tolerate its mate, others of its own kind will be chased away or harassed. It is generally peaceful with most other organisms in the reef system unless they impinge on its territory. As a "cleaner shrimp," it will set up cleaning stations and remove dead tissue and parasites from fish that present themselves. It will also scavenge for meaty bits along the substrate bottom. Often, only its antennae will be visible. It will not tolerate copper or high levels of nitrates in the aquarium, but will require correct levels of iodine in the water to promote proper molting.
The diet of the Blood Red Fire Shrimp should include freeze-dried, live or frozen foods, and flaked foods.
The diet of the Blood Red Fire Shrimp should include freeze-dried, live or frozen foods, and flaked foods.
Scarlet Skunk Cleaner:
The Scarlet Skunk Cleaner Shrimp acts like the medic of any saltwater aquarium. In fact, this active cleaner will set up shop on live rock or coral outcroppings and wait for fish to come and be cleaned of ectoparasites or dead tissue. Many fish value its services so highly that they even allow the Scarlet Skunk Cleaner Shrimp to clean inside of their mouths without harming the shrimp. No matter how your fish use the Scarlet Skunk Cleaner Shrimp's services, it is easy to see why this peaceful creature is so popular amongst home aquarists. The Scarlet Skunk Cleaner Shrimp is also known as the Red Skunk Cleaner Shrimp because of the distinct pair of bright red stripes that outline the single white stripe running down its back. The Scarlet Skunk Cleaner Shrimp is often found in groups amongst live rock or coral. In the home aquarium, the Scarlet Skunk Cleaner Shrimp requires similar habitats and peaceful tankmates. Some fish, such as Hawkfish and Lionfish or predatory shrimp or crabs may see this member of the Hippolytidae family as food.
Like other invertebrates, the Scarlet Skunk Cleaner Shrimp is intolerant of copper-based medications, high nitrate levels, and fluctuating water parameters. It also requires the drip-acclimation process when first introduced to your system. Also, proper iodine supplementation is necessary to promote molting and growth. To supplement their diet, feed Scarlet Skunk Cleaner Shrimp freeze dried, frozen, and flake foods.
The Scarlet Skunk Cleaner Shrimp or is also called the Indo-Pacific White-Banded Cleaner Shrimp, Indo-Pacific White-Striped Cleaner Shrimp, Skunk Cleaner Shrimp or the Scarlet Cleaner Shrimp.
Like other invertebrates, the Scarlet Skunk Cleaner Shrimp is intolerant of copper-based medications, high nitrate levels, and fluctuating water parameters. It also requires the drip-acclimation process when first introduced to your system. Also, proper iodine supplementation is necessary to promote molting and growth. To supplement their diet, feed Scarlet Skunk Cleaner Shrimp freeze dried, frozen, and flake foods.
The Scarlet Skunk Cleaner Shrimp or is also called the Indo-Pacific White-Banded Cleaner Shrimp, Indo-Pacific White-Striped Cleaner Shrimp, Skunk Cleaner Shrimp or the Scarlet Cleaner Shrimp.
Sexy (Anemone) Shrimp:
The Sexy Anemone Shrimp is named for its unusual body movements. When walking, Thor amboinensis sways its abdomen back and forth with exotic flair. In addition to this fascinating behavior, the Sexy Anemone Shrimp is also uniquely dressed in a reddish brown body dotted with brilliant white spots. These characteristics make the Sexy Anemone Shrimps an enchanting aquarium addition. Native to the reefs of the Indo-Pacific, this member of the Hippolytidae family is usually found amongst the tentacles of an anemone. In the home aquarium, however, the Sexy Anemone Shrimp is often found perched on a coral frag or outcropping of live rock. Most are equally fearless as they are beautiful and will scavenge in any area of the aquarium in search of meaty foods.
For best care, the Sexy Anemone Shrimp should be kept in small groups and fed a varied diet of plankton and flaked, frozen, and meaty foods. It is peaceful towards members of its own species and other tankmates. The Sexy Anemone Shrimp should not be housed in aquariums with predatory fish that might attack these small shrimp.
Interestingly, the Sexy Anemone Shrimp is a relatively fast grower and will molt about once a month. However, most Sexy Anemone Shrimp will grow only to a maximum size of around 1-1/2". Although very hardy, it requires a slow acclimation process to avoid any salinity and/or pH shock. Like other invertebrates, the Sexy Anemone Shrimp cannot tolerate high nitrate or copper levels. To promote proper molting, sufficient iodine levels must be maintained. Feed the Sexy Anemone Shrimp most flaked and frozen foods, plankton, and meaty items.
For best care, the Sexy Anemone Shrimp should be kept in small groups and fed a varied diet of plankton and flaked, frozen, and meaty foods. It is peaceful towards members of its own species and other tankmates. The Sexy Anemone Shrimp should not be housed in aquariums with predatory fish that might attack these small shrimp.
Interestingly, the Sexy Anemone Shrimp is a relatively fast grower and will molt about once a month. However, most Sexy Anemone Shrimp will grow only to a maximum size of around 1-1/2". Although very hardy, it requires a slow acclimation process to avoid any salinity and/or pH shock. Like other invertebrates, the Sexy Anemone Shrimp cannot tolerate high nitrate or copper levels. To promote proper molting, sufficient iodine levels must be maintained. Feed the Sexy Anemone Shrimp most flaked and frozen foods, plankton, and meaty items.
Be careful when adding these with aggressive fish, as their size leads them to be a possible quick snack, like popcorn.
Banded Coral Shrimp:
The Banded Coral Shrimp catches the eyes of most aquarists with their beautiful coloration and body shape. It has striking red and white bands across its body with fairly long pinchers and extra long white antennae. Combined with its prickly body texture, this peaceful member of the Stenopodidae family brings interest to any marine aquarium. However, most hobbyists praise Stenopus hispidus for its active nature as it scampers around the aquarium in search of food. Interestingly, members of the Stenopodidae family are known as "Boxing Shrimp" because of the large pinchers on their third set of legs. These pinchers are often held erect and give the Banded Coral Shrimp the appearance of a boxer ready to fight. Though the Banded Coral Shrimp can be aggressive towards other Banded Coral Shrimp and smaller shrimp of different species, most are peaceful towards fish, corals, and invertebrates within your aquarium. Because of its aggressive disposition towards other Banded Coral Shrimp, the Banded Coral Shrimp should be housed individually or kept as a true mated pair.
Native to the oceans of Indonesia, Stenopus hispidus is perhaps the most widely distributed shrimp in the sea. It usually hangs upside-down in caves or crevices, with only its antennae emerging from the hole. While molting, the Banded Coral Shrimp will often hide from sight for 1-2 days in the rocks of the reef. In the home aquarium, provide sufficient room for the Banded Coral Shrimp so it can move about freely without its long antennae touching neighboring corals or anemones.
The Banded Coral Shrimp is relatively hardy and boasts an aquarium-suited length that rarely exceeds 3 inches, 6 inches with the antennae. The male Banded Coral Shrimp is usually smaller. Breeding the Banded Coral Shrimp is usually not successful. Larvae generally succumb to filtration and skimming.
Like other invertebrates, the Banded Coral Shrimp is intolerant of high nitrate or copper levels. Be sure to maintain proper iodine levels in the aquarium to help ensure proper molting. The Banded Coral Shrimp must be acclimated slowly to avoid any salinity and/or pH shock.
In the wild, the Banded Coral Shrimp is a scavenger. In the home aquarium, it will accept most flaked and frozen foods.
Native to the oceans of Indonesia, Stenopus hispidus is perhaps the most widely distributed shrimp in the sea. It usually hangs upside-down in caves or crevices, with only its antennae emerging from the hole. While molting, the Banded Coral Shrimp will often hide from sight for 1-2 days in the rocks of the reef. In the home aquarium, provide sufficient room for the Banded Coral Shrimp so it can move about freely without its long antennae touching neighboring corals or anemones.
The Banded Coral Shrimp is relatively hardy and boasts an aquarium-suited length that rarely exceeds 3 inches, 6 inches with the antennae. The male Banded Coral Shrimp is usually smaller. Breeding the Banded Coral Shrimp is usually not successful. Larvae generally succumb to filtration and skimming.
Like other invertebrates, the Banded Coral Shrimp is intolerant of high nitrate or copper levels. Be sure to maintain proper iodine levels in the aquarium to help ensure proper molting. The Banded Coral Shrimp must be acclimated slowly to avoid any salinity and/or pH shock.
In the wild, the Banded Coral Shrimp is a scavenger. In the home aquarium, it will accept most flaked and frozen foods.
Note by melev: This shrimp is often referred to as the Coral Banded Shrimp, and it can eat meaty foods that include Peppermint shrimp and Cleaner shrimp. This shrimp is quite active at night, but will come out into the open during feeding times even when the lights are on.
Camel Shrimp:
These are sometimes mistakenly sold as Peppermints. From what I have read, the Peppermint has more of a clear body, and the Camel has a pronounced hump on the back, hence the name.
The Camel Shrimp is also known as the Hinge-beak Shrimp, Dancing Shrimp, or Candy Shrimp. It is distinguished by a movable rostrum (beak) that is usually angled upwards. The Camel Shrimp has a variable pattern of red and white stripes on its body. The males of its species tend to have larger chelipeds (claws) than the females.
It prefers to congregate with other shrimp of its kind in rock crevasses, under overhangs, or in the coral rubble. It especially needs hiding places when it is molting. It usually tolerates other shrimp, but may nip at colonial anemones, disc anemones, and soft leather corals. It generally leaves bubble coral and stinging anemones alone.
The Camel Shrimp will accept brine shrimp, frozen or freeze-dried plankton, and flaked food.
It prefers to congregate with other shrimp of its kind in rock crevasses, under overhangs, or in the coral rubble. It especially needs hiding places when it is molting. It usually tolerates other shrimp, but may nip at colonial anemones, disc anemones, and soft leather corals. It generally leaves bubble coral and stinging anemones alone.
The Camel Shrimp will accept brine shrimp, frozen or freeze-dried plankton, and flaked food.
Pistol:
The Pistol Shrimp may also be called Symbiosis Shrimp and Snapping Shrimp. It is found in a variety of colors and sizes. Pistol Shrimp are not easily sexed, but the males of many species are thought to have a larger pincher. The sound it makes comes from an appendage on the pincher which moves when the pincher is opened or closed and water is ejected. The Pistol Shrimp can be easily confused with Mantis Shrimp if judged by sound only. Unlike the Mantis Shrimp, it is not harmful and will not pose any threat in the tank, with the possible exception of smaller shrimp.
The name Symbiotic Shrimp comes from the equally beneficial relationship the Pistol Shrimp has with gobies (e.g.;Amblyeleotris or Stonogobiops). The goby, with better eyesight, warns the shrimp of predators. The shrimp share its food with the goby. Depending upon the species, Pistol Shrimp may also have symbiotic relationships with sponges, corals, or anemones (e.g.; Bartholomea annulata).
It is beneficial to the tank as it churns the sand. It thrives in environments with sand, rock caves, and dim light. If in pairs, one will often stand guard at the burrow while the other is inside. The Pistol Shrimp is intolerant of copper or high nitrate levels, but needs a correct level of iodine in the water to promote proper molting.
Pistol Shrimp will accept freeze-dried and frozen foods and bottom feeder tablets, as well as scavenge for algae in the aquarium.
The name Symbiotic Shrimp comes from the equally beneficial relationship the Pistol Shrimp has with gobies (e.g.;Amblyeleotris or Stonogobiops). The goby, with better eyesight, warns the shrimp of predators. The shrimp share its food with the goby. Depending upon the species, Pistol Shrimp may also have symbiotic relationships with sponges, corals, or anemones (e.g.; Bartholomea annulata).
It is beneficial to the tank as it churns the sand. It thrives in environments with sand, rock caves, and dim light. If in pairs, one will often stand guard at the burrow while the other is inside. The Pistol Shrimp is intolerant of copper or high nitrate levels, but needs a correct level of iodine in the water to promote proper molting.
Pistol Shrimp will accept freeze-dried and frozen foods and bottom feeder tablets, as well as scavenge for algae in the aquarium.
Harlequin:
The Harlequin Shrimp was first scientifically described in 1852. It has a white body with large red, purple, or brown spots. The male is slightly smaller than the female. It differs from its close cousin, H. elegans, which has pale blue spots. It has large claws (chelipeds) which are for show only; it does not use them for hunting.
The Harlequin Shrimp is best kept as mated pairs in an aquarium with moderate light. The Harlequin Shrimp can not tolerate copper or high nitrates, and iodine levels must be correct and maintained to ensure proper molting.
It is very particular about what it will eat, dining only on echinoderms, primarily starfish, and a few urchin species. It will eat starfish (Linckia, Fromia sp.) by starting at the tip of the arm and working its way to the central disc. The starfish may shed the arm, but is often mortally wounded.
As its primary source of food, you will need to supply the Harlequin Shrimp with starfish (Asterias rubens for adults, and Linckia for juveniles). The adults may also eat sea urchins.
The Harlequin Shrimp is best kept as mated pairs in an aquarium with moderate light. The Harlequin Shrimp can not tolerate copper or high nitrates, and iodine levels must be correct and maintained to ensure proper molting.
It is very particular about what it will eat, dining only on echinoderms, primarily starfish, and a few urchin species. It will eat starfish (Linckia, Fromia sp.) by starting at the tip of the arm and working its way to the central disc. The starfish may shed the arm, but is often mortally wounded.
As its primary source of food, you will need to supply the Harlequin Shrimp with starfish (Asterias rubens for adults, and Linckia for juveniles). The adults may also eat sea urchins.
Anemone Shrimp:
The Glass Anemone Shrimp, also known as the White-patched Anemone Shrimp, or Pacific Clown Anemone Shrimp, was first described in 1902. While it is sometimes difficult to see within its host anemone, it is the most common of all the imported anemone shrimps. Its transparent body has several white spots irregularly spread over its carapace and tail, which helps it to blend in with the tentacles of the anemone. Another distinctive marking of its species are the five black-edged orange spots on its caudal fin.
The Glass Anemone Shrimp will do best in a tank with anemones or sea cucumbers that can serve as a host. The shrimp will generally stay close to its host anemone or sea cucumber. If it does not see any larger fish nearby, it will sometimes venture out and forage for food. Otherwise, it shares its food with the anemone. It is protected from the stinging cells of the anemone by the mucus secreted by the anemone, which coats the shrimp's body. Every time the shrimp molts to grow, it has to hide from the anemone since it loses its mucus-covered shell. It then has to slowly approach the anemone and re-cover its body with the mucus. If there are several Glass Anemone Shrimp in the aquarium, the males will tend to have more white spots and be larger than the females.
In the aquarium, it will eat most meat or fish-based diets.
The Glass Anemone Shrimp will do best in a tank with anemones or sea cucumbers that can serve as a host. The shrimp will generally stay close to its host anemone or sea cucumber. If it does not see any larger fish nearby, it will sometimes venture out and forage for food. Otherwise, it shares its food with the anemone. It is protected from the stinging cells of the anemone by the mucus secreted by the anemone, which coats the shrimp's body. Every time the shrimp molts to grow, it has to hide from the anemone since it loses its mucus-covered shell. It then has to slowly approach the anemone and re-cover its body with the mucus. If there are several Glass Anemone Shrimp in the aquarium, the males will tend to have more white spots and be larger than the females.
In the aquarium, it will eat most meat or fish-based diets.
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