Here are a few of those:
Tiger Tail Cucumber:
The Tiger Tail Sea Cucumber is one of nature's more exotic detritus eaters. With its brown body spotted with white and dressed in numerous spiny papillae, Holothuria sp. is also a visually stunning addition to the home aquarium. Since it is a very adept and agile scavenger, the Tiger Tail Sea Cucumber can clean detritus from beneath rockwork and difficult-to-clean tight corners. Native to the oceans of the Indo-Pacific, this member of the Holothuriidae family can grow to impressive lengths of up to six feet long in the wild. In the home aquarium, however, most max out in length between 12" and 18" long. In general, keep only 3 inches of worm for every 20 gallons of aquarium water.
For best care, the Tiger Tail Sea Cucumber should be kept in larger systems with thick sand beds and rocky caves for shelter. The natural diet of the Tiger Tail Sea Cucumber consists of diatoms, microalgae, bacteria, meaty foods, and other detritus. Interestingly, the Tiger Tail Sea Cucumber is one of the few species that attaches its lower body to the inside of its shelter and only extends its anterior half when searching for food.
Like other invertebrates, the Tiger Tail Sea Cucumber cannot tolerate high nitrate levels or copper-based medications. The drip-acclimation method is recommended to minimize exposure to fluctuating water parameters.
For best care, the Tiger Tail Sea Cucumber should be kept in larger systems with thick sand beds and rocky caves for shelter. The natural diet of the Tiger Tail Sea Cucumber consists of diatoms, microalgae, bacteria, meaty foods, and other detritus. Interestingly, the Tiger Tail Sea Cucumber is one of the few species that attaches its lower body to the inside of its shelter and only extends its anterior half when searching for food.
Like other invertebrates, the Tiger Tail Sea Cucumber cannot tolerate high nitrate levels or copper-based medications. The drip-acclimation method is recommended to minimize exposure to fluctuating water parameters.
Note by melev: This particular cucumber will split when it reaches a certain size, and will continue to do so as long as there is plenty of food available. I purchased one about 7 or 8 years ago, and have about that many in my tanks today.
Lettuce (Nudi) Sea Slug:
The Lettuce Sea Slug is an unusual and entertaining addition to the reef aquarium. It has highly folded parapodia (side appendages), which give it a ruffled appearance similar to lettuce. The Lettuce Sea Slug is captivating not only for its interesting shape but also for its purposeful and comical manner in which it creeps along your reef aquarium. The coloration of the Lettuce Sea Slug generally ranges from green, yellow, or brown. The Lettuce Sea Slug may also be referred to as the Lettuce Nudibranch, or Green Lettuce Nudibranch, although it is not a true nudibranch. It has been referred to as both Tridachia crispata and Elysia crispata. The Lettuce Sea Slug will do well in established aquarium systems, if provided ample room to forage. It prefers an aquarium with live rock so that it can graze on algae.
The Lettuce Sea Slug incorporates the chloroplasts (the portions of the cell responsible for photosynthesis) from the algae into its tissues, and thus relies on photosynthesis for part of its energy. Pump intakes and drains can harm the Lettuce Sea Slug, so care should be taken to screen these off. It is sensitive to high levels of nitrate and will not tolerate copper-based medications. The Lettuce Sea Slug has no distinguishing characteristics to help differentiate it from its mate.
The Lettuce Sea Slug incorporates the chloroplasts (the portions of the cell responsible for photosynthesis) from the algae into its tissues, and thus relies on photosynthesis for part of its energy. Pump intakes and drains can harm the Lettuce Sea Slug, so care should be taken to screen these off. It is sensitive to high levels of nitrate and will not tolerate copper-based medications. The Lettuce Sea Slug has no distinguishing characteristics to help differentiate it from its mate.
Tuxedo Pincushion Urchin:
The Tuxedo Pincushion Urchin, also known as the Sphere Urchin or Globe Urchin, has five to ten broad-colored bands usually blue or black, with red, brown, or dark spines. This very striking combination, gives it the "formal" look and thus the name "Tuxedo Urchin." During the day, it will hide among the rocks, in crevices, or under plants in a sandy substrate. At night, it will emerge to graze on the algae present in or near its home. The Tuxedo Pincushion Urchin generally roams alone, but several of them could be housed in the same aquarium if it is large enough to provide them with adequate food (algae) and shelter. It is sensitive to high levels of copper-based medications and it will not tolerate high nitrate levels. If it starts to lose a number of spines, it is often due to poor water conditions.
If algae levels are particularly low, its diet will need to be supplemented with dried seaweed.
If algae levels are particularly low, its diet will need to be supplemented with dried seaweed.
Long-Spine Urchin:
The Black Longspine Urchin, also known as Long-spined Sea Urchin, has a body which is predominately black with a red eyespot in the center. The spines on these urchins are long, thin and completely black. They are a very delicate looking urchin, which are actually very capable of protecting itself. These urchins are excellent algae controllers for an aquarium housing aggressive fish. Provide an aquarium with ample hiding places and room to roam. Being a nocturnal creature, the Black Longspine Urchin will hide during the day and only come out at night to forage for food such as algae and seaweed. These urchins are an excellent algae controller for an aggressive aquarium where other invertebrates would be eaten. When approached by a fish, these urchins will sense their presence, and will defend itself by directing its spines towards its offender. It is very sensitive to high levels of copper-based medications and will not tolerate high nitrate levels. If it begins to shed its spines, it is a sign of very poor water quality.
The diet may be supplemented with dried seaweed. Also, if you are OCD about your sand being clean like I am, be aware that this urchin can leave broken spines all over your sand floor.
Starfish:
Serpent Star:
I have one of these in my tank and it does a good job of scavenging around and finding leftover food or detritus.
The Serpent Sea Star of the genus Ophioderma has a central, 5-sided disc with five banded, scaly arms. Depending upon the species and locale, the color can range from maroon, to orange, to green. The central disc can also have variable markings. It does well in an aquarium if provided with ample hiding places and plenty of room to roam. Even though it is a nocturnal animal, it will eventually learn to come out during the day to eat.
The Serpent Sea Star is very intolerant of sudden changes in oxygen levels, salinity and pH of the water, and cannot tolerate copper-based medications. The drip acclimation method is highly recommended for all Sea Stars due to their intolerability to changes in water chemistry. It should never be exposed to air while handling.
It is extremely difficult to breed in an aquarium with no distinguishing characteristics to help differentiate it from its mate.
In the aquarium, it can be fed small pieces of chopped meat, shrimp, mussel, or fish.
The Serpent Sea Star is very intolerant of sudden changes in oxygen levels, salinity and pH of the water, and cannot tolerate copper-based medications. The drip acclimation method is highly recommended for all Sea Stars due to their intolerability to changes in water chemistry. It should never be exposed to air while handling.
It is extremely difficult to breed in an aquarium with no distinguishing characteristics to help differentiate it from its mate.
In the aquarium, it can be fed small pieces of chopped meat, shrimp, mussel, or fish.
Sand Sifting Star:
As you read the below, it is true that they need deep sand to survive, I had one of these in my shallow sand bed, and he wasn't doing very well. I gave him to a friend with a deep sand bed, and the star is now flourishing and has almost doubled in size.
The Sand Sifting Sea Star, at first glance, seems to be drably colored like most bottom dwellers. But closer inspection reveals a striking beauty and serenity to the alternating bands of brown and beige that dress this invertebrate's thick, spine-covered arms. Like other starfish, Astropecten polycanthus efficiently consumes mass amounts of detritus and uneaten foods. This nocturnally active member of the Astropectinidae family can move large amounts of sand as it burrows into the substrate in its search for food. This peaceful omnivore will effectively clean even the largest home aquarium of detritus and left over food. Like other starfish, the Sand Sifting Sea Star will also consume small invertebrates, including shrimp, urchins, mollusks, bivalves, or other small sea stars. As such, the Sand Sifting Sea Star should be actively fed a varied diet consisting of natural food sources, especially in well-established marine aquariums. Otherwise, this voracious feeder will quickly clean your aquarium of detritus and then burrow into your substrate, starve, and eventually begin to decay.
To foster its feeding habits, the Sand Sifting Sea Star should be kept in aquariums with large, deep sand bottoms of several inches in depth. Since it is slower moving than most fish, the Sand Sifting Sea Star should not be housed with natural predators, including Puffers.
Like other invertebrates, the Sand Sifting Sea Star is very intolerant of sudden changes in oxygen levels, salinity, and pH and cannot tolerate copper-based medications. To successfully acclimate new specimens to your aquarium, use the drip acclimation method and never expose the Sand Sifting Sea Star to air while handling.
Breeding in the home aquarium is extremely difficult with no distinguishing characteristics to help differentiate between males and females.
To foster its feeding habits, the Sand Sifting Sea Star should be kept in aquariums with large, deep sand bottoms of several inches in depth. Since it is slower moving than most fish, the Sand Sifting Sea Star should not be housed with natural predators, including Puffers.
Like other invertebrates, the Sand Sifting Sea Star is very intolerant of sudden changes in oxygen levels, salinity, and pH and cannot tolerate copper-based medications. To successfully acclimate new specimens to your aquarium, use the drip acclimation method and never expose the Sand Sifting Sea Star to air while handling.
Breeding in the home aquarium is extremely difficult with no distinguishing characteristics to help differentiate between males and females.
In closing, I would be doing a disservice to you by not pointing out one CUC member that is the most important. Can anyone guess what that is??
Why it's YOU, silly. You are the best and most efficient CUC member of your own tank. This would include doing your water changes regularly and on time, feeding appropriate amounts of food, flipping over upside-down snails, scraping your glass, and adding more CUC inverts when needed as they do die off in time.
I will end with famous words by Smokey the Bear:
Works Cited
Live Aquaria "Marine Invertebrates" 4 Apr. 2010. http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/a...lies.cfm?c=497
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