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bbandu

Wanting to build my own sump/refugium

Rating: 2 votes, 5.00 average.
Ok everyone this is my first post. My name is Larry and I am setting up a 150g mixed reef tank. I have decided to DIY some of the if the things I need for the tank, ie the stand, canopy and sump. I have already started on the stand, I am building a steel frame stand covered in wood. I am waiting for quotes on getting it powder coated, and while I wait I want to get started on the sump. I am using a 40g breeder with the dims of 36 x 18 x 16 as my sump and using a ASM G3 skimmer which has a footprint of 11 x 12. I would also like to include a refugium into this sump.

It would be wonderfull ifi someone could answer some questions and comment on my design.

1. Can you install acrylic baffles into a glass tank, if yes how is it done?
2. What is the correct spacing for baffles?
3. What is the best flow setup for a sump with a refugium -
skimmer, refugium, return -
refugium, return, skimmer, if this is the best one what is the best way to set up the drain?

Sump desig

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Updated 02-24-2011 at 01:15 AM by melev

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Questions - Need some input

Comments

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  1. BackReefer's Avatar
    I would consider a bigger sump if you want to incorporate a refugium, IMO. I have used acrylic baffles in glass tanks with no problem. Sounds like a fun build, hope to see pics.
  2. bbandu's Avatar
    I will start a new build thread tonight when I have access to all my pics.
  3. 1AaronTravels's Avatar
    Larry,

    Welcome, I'll give you my .02 c worth.

    #1, Yes, Just use Aquarium Branded Silicon. The other stuff, will undoubtly have arsenic in it to prevent mold from growing on it.
    #2. an inch will work for the baffles.
    #3. My sump looks like your drawing above, with exception, I T'eed off of the input side and piped it down with a gate valve to the Sump, such that both the sump and the Skimmer sections flow over and into the return section.

    for more info and ideas, Marc has plenty at http://www.melevsreef.com/allmysumps.html THIS IS AN EXCELLENT RESOURCE!

    Ciao,
    Aaron
  4. bbandu's Avatar
    thanks I have looked at alot of the sump designs that he has on there.

    So you put a T on the drain and then a gate ball valve on the side going to the refugium to control the water flow to the refugium and just let it overflow into the return section.

    I thought that silicone would not stick to the acrylic
  5. Mustang's Avatar
    I can also confirm that silicon (remember aquarium safe) will work with acrylic and glass. I think when people have said that silicon would not adhere to acrylic they where referring to applications like that of building an aquarium and holding pans together. When your sump is full there is not much pressure on the baffles because of the near equal pressure on either side. I was thinking of doing the same design as yours but reconsidered and went with a left to right design. My overflow has 2 drains so I will probably just move one of the drains so that it drains directly into the soon to be refugium section achieving the same goal as having a center return zone. I went with a deep sump and reason for this was so that I had as much water volume as possible. Just make sure when you power down your return you will have room for the extra water that will drain back and if you drill some siphon holes in your return and you should be fine. Oh and if I can suggest 2 things, get an auto-top off from the beginning if you can and if not defiantly make your return section a decent size. Reason being is that you don’t want your pump to run dry and be stuck like me topping your tank off twice a day as I think I am going through about 10gals of evaporation a week in my 108gal.
    PS sump is a 50gal tall 4’x1’x20”
  6. DJ in WV's Avatar
    probally cheaper to have a glass shop just cut you some 1/4 plate to size. Silicone just acts like a stopper to hold the acrylic in place doesnt stick for @#$%.
  7. DJ in WV's Avatar
    Plus alot of room for a bigger sump, than a 40 breeder it is only going to hold about 15 to 18 gals when running. Remember dilution is the solution
  8. yiyi67's Avatar
    The purpose of T'ing off of the drain line to the fuge is to move dirty water through your refugium. In the past, instead of T'ing off the drain line I have used a power head to pump water from the return section into the refugium, but it's not the most power efficient nor nutrient export efficient way to do things. As your drawing is now water would just sit in the refugium and not circulate throughout the tank, thus kind of defeating the purpose of the fuge. I think the way you have it drawn (refugium, return, skimmer) is the best design out there as long as you have your drain plumbed to the refugium.
  9. Midnight's Avatar
    For those of you that do not think silicone sticks to acrylic: take a piece of acrylic and a random object like a coffee mug, squirt some silicon on the acrylic press random object into silicone. let stand for appropriate time. lift acrylic and turn over, tell me what happens.
  10. JABlacher's Avatar
    Most importantly when setting up your baffles is to make sure that the water level in your skimmer section is set to the recommended height required by your skimmer. Or design it with the ability to raise the skimmer to the height needed while still being able to fit beneath your stand.
  11. bbandu's Avatar
    Quote Originally Posted by yiyi67
    The purpose of T'ing off of the drain line to the fuge is to move dirty water through your refugium. In the past, instead of T'ing off the drain line I have used a power head to pump water from the return section into the refugium, but it's not the most power efficient nor nutrient export efficient way to do things. As your drawing is now water would just sit in the refugium and not circulate throughout the tank, thus kind of defeating the purpose of the fuge. I think the way you have it drawn (refugium, return, skimmer) is the best design out there as long as you have your drain plumbed to the refugium.

    If I T off my drain to the refugium and skimmer sections then they both would overflow into the return section going through baffles and then back to the tank. Is it ok to have water that has not been through the skimmer return to the tank.
  12. Midnight's Avatar
    yes this happens on all systems
  13. bbandu's Avatar
    ok I understand now. I think that is how I will do it.
  14. pepper'scove's Avatar
    I just built a sump with almost the exact same design. However, anytime i stir up anything in the refugium the baffles on that end of the tank get sediment in between them. Not having them would alleviate that problem and free up and extra 2.5 inches of space. I also managed to put a Vertex - IN 180 skimmer in that sump (a 11 in X 18 in X 11 in partition).
  15. pepper'scove's Avatar
    I have a 3d model I may be able to send to you. It's currently in a SolidWorks file, but I can put some drawing files together this weekend and put them in a pdf if you are interested. Also, my 40 gallon breeder has 29 gallons of water in it the way I have it set up. That's a pretty good amount of water in my opinion.
  16. Neelixx's Avatar
    Quote Originally Posted by bbandu
    Is it ok to have water that has not been through the skimmer return to the tank.
    Absolutely! The skimmer only pulls a fraction of the water that flows to it. Most just flows on by hoping to be caught on the next go 'round. Very common to have drains on both sides of the sump to flow to the center. Some water gets skimmed while other water gets 'fuged.
  17. bbandu's Avatar
    Ok so if I build my sump like it is designed above I would plumb it this way, what do you think.

  18. Neelixx's Avatar
    That's the basic design that I'm using to build mine.
  19. bbandu's Avatar
    Ok I think that I am going to go with this design, if anyone has any sugestions to make it better please chime in.
  20. pepper'scove's Avatar
    I wouldn't use the baffles on the refugium side as that has caused a slight buildup of detritus that I have to vacuum out periodically. Just my two cents worth.
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