Blog Comments

I'm glad it got there in good condition. Sorry it took so long to get built, Midnight.

I just picked up the sump from Fedex. The pictures do not do it justice, THIS SUMP IS A MONSTER! Marc really out did himself on this build. I am really glad I had him do it over myself.

Stand i will be building will have 6 uprights, 4 on the corners and 2 centered. I have some some 1" think steel bar stock that I will be threading with a 3/4" x 10 tap for the treads. I might even go with a 2" stock. After built i will be covering it with figured cherry soild wood for the finishing touch. I will post some pics when it's built.

P.S. What do I need to do to get a frag from that birdsnest?

The Orange Blob lives! Or should I say, we have some DNA to play with.

We have the technology, we can rebuild him.

Comic Con?! Thought I was the only closet comic geek here. Say hello to the Foglio's for me.

Phil (comic and gamer geek/reefer/pilot)

Initially I thought that they might not be strong enough, since the threads were what are doing all the actual holding, but I've been assured they are plenty strong. The feet at the four corners are definitely good, but what about the two in the center? Do you have two verticals right above those as well?

What ate your thoughts about using leveling feet. I will be building a stand for my 195 in about a month. I have 3" leveling feet rated to hold 15,000 lbs each? Planning on using 6 total leveling feet?

THREAD NECRO AND MISSING POSTER!

sorry.. outta blue getting updates to this... is it sad that I was talking about still finishing up my 75 in this post and right now I'm setting up a 210?

I got mine from a friend up in Utah. Dion Richin's Carpentry, or something really close to that. I'll try to find him on Facebook for you and get you two connected.

Marc, any idea where these shims can be ordered/purchased from?

Glad to see no more damage than there was. I'm going to assume that there are no trailer brakes. I know on my enclosed trailer there is a backup battery that is hooked to the brake system, if the pin is pulled out it applies the brakes on the trailer. I to cross the chains and use carabiner's instead of hooks.

I like the carabiner suggestion, good call.

Correct. It's about 6.5" worth of PVC, with about 1" pressed up into the bulkhead and the base should be submerged 1/2". The rest of the area under the pipe should be filled with rock rubble.

Use the screw lock type carabiners instead of the "S" hooks ...if you try the cross chain method it's important to have the chains long enough to make the sharp turns without binding, but short enough to keep the trailer from dragging...easy for me to say, my tow vehicle was a 1 ton 4 wheel drive with 33" tires ...if the trailer comes off, it most likely will hit the back of the tow vehicle...the key is to try to keep the damage to the tow vehicle and the trailer to a minimum while maintaining control of both and bringing them both to a safe stop...of course, in my case, it's all theory, because fortunately, I never had a trailer come unhitched...but it seems to be a well shared theory...here's a link from Arizona about hooking up a boat trailer for what it's worth http://boat-ed.com/az/handbook/trailering.htm

To the water level, or just below, wherever seems to make less bubbles and noise

Question: The piece of PVC or flex that goes down to the bubble trap should be how long -- how far into the bubble trap?

Thanks

Well fortunately most people have narrow tanks and can only fit f'ing sumps

wow man, glad you are alright

Yeah, but it's harder to make! I want more F'ing customers.

Yeah , I have always done the criss cross basket method too.