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pepper'scove

Microbubbles in main tank...?

Rating: 3 votes, 5.00 average.
12 Comments
by
pepper'scove
, 03-06-2012 at 12:00 AM (8450 Views)
So I believe I have microbubbles getting into the main tank. I was looking at the water in my skimmer section today and noticed that it had a decent amount of froth on the water's surface (nothing spectacular just some definite buildup of frothy sections). Then I got looking at the skimmer section and noticed a ton of microbubbles, no surprise yet. Then I took a look at my bubble traps. Bubbles were going down the hatch at an alarming rate. Then I looked at the bioball section thinking that surley that would quench the problem... no dice. So I have tons of microbubbles pouring into my return section. The picture below illustrates what that does to the water.

Click image for larger version Name: IMG_1354.jpg Views: 318 Size: 155.2 KB ID: 7095

So that brings me to my set of questions, comments, and a list of possible causes:

1.) I do currently have the skimmer nearly 3inches deeper than it will eventually be. However, the outflow from the skimmer is pretty significant. I think that no matter what the bubbles from the skimmer are going to go as far down as the tank floor will allow. Also, the water flow rate from my actual pump will be higher, thus giving the bubbles even more likelihood of making it all the way down the bubble trap without being forced back up by the bouyancy force.

2.) I already have my skimmer output turned as far away from the overflow as possible.

3.) Do you guys think this is just a problem I'm having because:
  • The plumbing is new?
  • This isn't saltwater, it's unfiltered freshwater and I should expect a certain amount of murkiness?
  • The skimmer is putting too many bubbles into the water and I need to raise my skimmer?
  • The 1 inch gap between the baffles and under the raised baffles isn't enough distance and the flow is too fast through the bubble traps for them to be effective?
  • The tank had dust and some sawdust in it before I started this full scale water test and I'd only been running the filter socks for about 30 mins before I took the above picture?
  • Something entirely different that I haven't mentioned?
Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version Name: IMG_1354.jpg‎ Views: 428 Size: 155.1 KB ID: 7094  

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Tags: microbubbles
Categories
‎ Plumbing , ‎ Questions - Need some input , ‎ Equipment

Comments

  1. melev's Avatar
    If you are worried about bubbles now, just wait until you have saltwater in there.

    And yes, it takes up to 14 days for everything to slime over and then you can look at any needed adjustments to correct microbubbles.
  2. pepper'scove's Avatar
    Quote Originally Posted by melev
    If you are worried about bubbles now, just wait until you have saltwater in there.

    And yes, it takes up to 14 days for everything to slime over and then you can look at any needed adjustments to correct microbubbles.
    First I'd like to say, when I woke up this morning the problem seemed markedly better. So in all likelihood it has something to do with the fact that this is new plumbing and I should just keep the water test going for another week and a half (that's more a question than a statement)? Also, was I supposed to be comforted or concerned about the clarity of the water once I add salt? Is salt less likely to have a bubble problem since it's more buoyant?

    Some of the solutions I've thought about adopting include installing additional baffles which I'm sure would work, but I think would be overkill compared to what I've seen. Perhaps I'm just being a worry wart and this problem will just self cure once the plumbing lines get broken in (the skimmer was used for over a month before so I think it should be broken in already).
  3. melev's Avatar
    You need to transition this to saltwater, whether you drain it and refill it with saltwater or add salt to the existing water if it's RO/DI. From that point forward, it takes 14 days for everything to develop a bio-film.

    I doubt you'll need more baffles. Perhaps you'll have to slow down your return pump some, but that's about it.
  4. pepper'scove's Avatar
    Okay, sounds good. Slowing down the return line sounds like a good plan.
  5. pepper'scove's Avatar
    Quote Originally Posted by melev
    You need to transition this to saltwater, whether you drain it and refill it with saltwater or add salt to the existing water if it's RO/DI. From that point forward, it takes 14 days for everything to develop a bio-film.

    I doubt you'll need more baffles. Perhaps you'll have to slow down your return pump some, but that's about it.
    P.s. I won't be transitioning to saltwater until I am able to purchase an RO/DI system. That won't be for another couple months, but it seems premature to buy 100 gallons of water at $1/gal. and have been able to come out with an RO/DI system if I had just waited for a little bit and purchased the RO/DI system for $50-100 more than the initial cost of water... Actually, since you sell RO/DI systems, does your smaller system come with an inline TDS meter? I'm currently trying to figure out what filtration system to buy and am considering several different ones. However, having one from you would make it much easier to trouble shoot problems than purchasing it elsewhere (say BRS or Spectrapure). Any suggestions on this would be great, thanks Marc!
  6. melev's Avatar
    The idea that the plumbing will mature with freshwater for now to reduce bubbles later won't be true since you'll be changing to saltwater with a different surface tension. Whenever you do change it to 35ppt, the clock will have to start over as that slime & bacteria is saltwater friendly.

    I do sell a dual TDS meter as an add-on for $50. It's the nice one you see on the front of the 150gpd system in my shop. I also offer the $25 hand-held version if you prefer that. I do full product support when required.
  7. pepper'scove's Avatar
    Cool! And, I definitely would prefer the TDS meter to be inline. Even at $170+$50 your unit still comes in cheaper than all the others, plus I know where to find you if something goes wrong. I definitely see what you mean about different surface tension and different bacteria and slime. I guess for now then this is just an extended system functionality test. In order to complete my system I still need:

    1.) The VorTech's
    2.) The lights (I think I've got somebody that's going to give me there so... we'll see)
    3.) The ATO
    4.) The RO/DI
    5.) The rockwork
    6.) The sand
    7.) The fish and coral!

    So really I have a ways to go, but taking it slow lets me see all my mistakes and missteps before (hopefully) they turn into another tank disaster. Not to mention that I'm a college student on a budget that only has just so much wiggle room to save for luxury items (although that will be changing soon with my pending graduation with a dual B.S. in Mechanical and Aerospace Engineering and my soon-to-be-wife's graduation from medical school!).
  8. melev's Avatar
    I'm also selling a top-it-off kit now. It's not on my site yet, but coming soon.
  9. Midnight's Avatar
    I have a used 100gal a day unit that I will be selling. I bet I can beat Marc's price for a new one.
  10. pepper'scove's Avatar
    Quote Originally Posted by Midnight
    I have a used 100gal a day unit that I will be selling. I bet I can beat Marc's price for a new one.
    Lol, how many/what type of stages does it have on it? Does it have a TDS meter on it? How old is the unit? Etc. If you give me a PM or just respond back here on this thread with more details and a price that'd be great. Keep in mind that in order for me to snap up the unit right away (since I don't have money saved up for this specific purchase) that it'd have to be a darn good deal. So no promises, but I'm definitely interested.

    Thanks,
    Jeremy
  11. melev's Avatar
    What's your warranty period, Michael? lol Just kidding. Jeremy, if you end up needing parts, I'm here.
  12. pepper'scove's Avatar
    Haha, I love it. Can I interest both of you in a "trade war"? My prefered terms are:

    1.) Infinite warranty length with:
    - Full accidental/purposeful damage coverage
    - Future upgrades included
    2.) Lifetime replacement of all filter cartridges, RO membranes, and DI resin.
    3.) Full back up support including reimbursment for any water bought during a break down or otherwise purchased from a public water supply...
    4.) A paid maintence man to come in an clean up any algae outbreaks since they couldn't possible be my fault...

    Haha, right... on the more realistic side, Marc, he's gonna have to offer a good deal or wait a couple months if he wants to swipe business out from your clutches.