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fchidsey

Are my lights killing my corals??

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I know this is a really dumb question but I really just have not other Idea what could be going on here.

I have tested the parameters in the tank 160 reef 30 - 40 gallon sump. the tank has been running for 10 months now reading over the last three weeks
sg 1.027 read with both hydrometer and refractometer
am 0, nitrite 0 nitrate 10 ppm
cal 385 - 400
alk 9.6 - 10.5
mg 1350
phosphate 0.00 - 0.05
tank temp between 76.7 and 77.9

Lighting- Lights are two Coralvue 250 w MH bulbs 20k they turn on at 1400 hours and off at 2300 hours.
The bulbs came with the setup (used) I was told they were like new. the ballast is coral-vue also designed to support two lamps.

so the bulbs have been "active" for ten months now over the last two months my favia has receded to almost nothing and I have a month old button coral that is also losing polyps.

I also began Vodka dosing about six weeks ago and currently dose 3.0 ml per day. and have not seen a reduction in nitrate it has been at 10 ppm since I began dosing.

so what do you think is it time for new bulbs?
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NEED HELP STAT! , ‎ Lighting

Comments

  1. agsansoo's Avatar
    Yes ! I would get bulbs with higher par outputs and in the 10K-14K range. 20k is for tanks that aren't worried about growth.
  2. fchidsey's Avatar
    Ya I just ordered 14k coral vue bulbs. what do i need to do for burn in and coral acclimation and for how long?

    all my other tanks had either vho or t-5 lighting.
  3. agsansoo's Avatar
    Some people just run their MH's for less hours, some raise the lights and some use layered window screen. I use the last method. I place two layers of nylon window screen over some egg create (attached with zip ties) and remove one screen after one week. The last screen after two weeks.
  4. melev's Avatar
    The Favia is probably getting too much light. Try a spot that is a little more shaded than where it is presently.

    How far are the bulbs off the water? What reflectors do you use?
  5. fchidsey's Avatar
    reflectors are cheap w shape and the bulbs are 13 inches off the water may be 15.

    on a side note the favia has been in that spot for about 4 months do you still think it's to high??
  6. melev's Avatar
    If the Favia has been declining that entire time, then yes. It sounds like you have it up in the rockwork. Why not move it down some? Show us some progression pictures if you have them.
  7. fchidsey's Avatar


    This photo was taken on 05/23/2010



    This was taken on 04/24/2010 this is when I began to notice the decline.



    This was taken on 04/08/2010 fat and Happy so i thought.



    this was taken on 01/12/2010 new to the tank with in a month or so. ( I know i should keep better records.)
    I did a 30 gallon W/c today the new tank parms are as follows:

    Sg 1.026
    Nitrate between 10-25 ppm
    Alk 10.6
    Cal 370
    PO4 0.00
    mg 1470
    Updated 05-29-2010 at 08:55 PM by fchidsey
  8. melev's Avatar
    Calcium is a bit low, and nitrate is a bit on the high side. I'd move it down, and make sure you don't have anything with sweepers hitting that coral day or night.

    EDIT: It doesn't look like a light issue.
  9. fchidsey's Avatar
    I'm working on those issues currently dosing 3.0 ml and I just did a W/C today so I expected the calcium to be a little low I used I/O so it should be up to par in a week or so.
    Updated 05-29-2010 at 10:21 PM by fchidsey
  10. fchidsey's Avatar
    I move the favia and have done two w/c's 30 gallons each so that's about 40% over five days I'll be testing water tomm.
  11. Drew's Avatar
    Water changes are good but system itself should not creep up to 10 ppm nitrates. I would consider a refugium. I agree with others that nitrates are the first culprit.

    I read and tried adding KNO3 to only 2 ppm to rid tank of cyano, like FW planted tanks do. It did work however delicate sps created very poorly and I won't do it again.
  12. ex-neo's Avatar
    If the concern that your lighting is hurting your corals,you may lack proper Iodine levels.
    Presence of iodine is vital to corals because it is used to detoxify excess oxygen produced by zooxanthellae.
    This oxygen irritates sensitive tissue.
    Corals and clams that appear to shrivel or close under intense lighting are likely attempting to shade their zooxanthellae symbionts to reduce the rate of oxygen production.
    Iodide essentially bonds with oxygen to form non-toxic iodate, relieving the need to shield (close/shrivel) zooxanthellae and enabling the host organism to open more fully.
  13. ex-neo's Avatar
    IMO ,the coral also appears wasting away because of lack of feeding ??