Hey Marc, looks great, is that the same stuff Drummereef used for his lights? That stuff definitely seems like the way to go if you are using the pendants.
that looks great ! good job!
I love VHO actinics and I own them. I've got bulbs, ballasts and space.
Nice Shirt Marc, Gresham would be proud.. Any particular reason you are staying with VHO's for your supplemental lighting? I switched mine over to the reef brite LED's and haven't been happier.
Ross, the ones I have are much bigger than the ones you forwarded pictures of. What you have is fine, and keeps things from clogging up the drain. The white section is larger than I would use, but they selected that because it is a sweet or elongated 90 versus a normal hard 90 (elbow) fitting. Thanks for the note. I am installing the drain provided by my aquarium store after they drilled my 55 gallon. My concern is that it is SO LARGE. Seems like it takes up more tank real-estate than I would like. I saw that, "looked like a drain cap" in Melev's toy box and wondered if something like that might work better. I would have posted on the blog so all could share but couldn’t figure out how to add the images. I purchased an Eheim 1262 pump hoping for a big turn-over so believe I need a big drain. Have you got any advice. Thx in advance. Ross
The strainer baskets are from Savko.com and come in 1.5" and 2" threaded. I got two 1.5" for intakes to each Dart pump. If anything gets into the return section, it won't be sucked into the return pump. I'm going to use flex PVC where it is useful, and rigid where it isn't. I know that isn't very helpful at the moment, but it will make more sense in the upcoming article about plumbing a reef tank.
and where did you get the screens? i need a couple like that.lol
I notice both flex tube and hard pvc in your designs and pictures. How do you decide which to use when? Thx rossbryant1956
What is the plan for the 2 drains in the box?
bits and baubles make me drool.
I agree with that but I am a big time self doubted. 95 % of the time I am doing things right but still am I?
If you can do more research, it really isn't about winging it so much. Talking to others with more knowledge is key, as you pointed out. I try to talk to others when I'm unsure or simply don't know the answers myself.
If I had placed a shelf across the base of the stand, I would sacrifice a minimum of 3" of vertical space. Additionally, the area under the shelf would still collect water until enough had leaked / spilled to eventually work toward the floor drain. This process was better suited for what was needed, although it definitely made me sore the next day.
sorry for the loss that was a great piece. Just to let you know though, I feel your pain, but the feeling you had trying to save it and not really knowing what you are doing is helping or not, is how I feel all the time about everything, I think I need to pay someone with allot of knowledge on this hobby, and just come to my house and say, this is good/bad do this, I need that, I need this,, why, and how.. this winging it all the time sucks. I am glad this algae bloom I had and the nice hammer and anenome i lost were the only things in the tank. Good luck with the Green one.
Marc, I may be completely off hear but wouldn't it have been easier to do a shelf across the bottom of the stand? instead of bringing the grade of the concrete to the the stand. that way you would have had a nice slope for water to drain straight towards the French drain?
Originally Posted by melev Hang on. I'm thinking about the wall drain you mentioned, and need to point out that sink plumbing is different from how a washing machine drains. A washing machine pumps out the dirty water at a specific rate (no idea how many GPH that is), where a sink conceivably could drain faster with a faucet open full strength. I don't know if the drain in the wall box will keep up. You better check with a plumber on that one, just to be sure. Somewhere, that drain line is going to need a vent pipe so water can exit without gulping, burping, or surging. Good info. It's new construction, and I've got a plumber doing the work. It will be a 2" drain line coming into the box, so that should suffice. I'll be sure we get a vent on there. We'll also have a trap, but we're considering violating a building code and actually putting the trap down in the crawl space so that the drain can be just above the trim height on the wall.
Adam, you didn't read my previous entries. The concrete slab was poured over rebar two months ago. What I'm doing now is simply filling in the spot where the sump will be, and making the walking area smoother for myself and to direct water. Here's that blog entry: http://www.reefaddicts.com/entry.php/878-Concrete-Day
I'm a electrician by trade but i see allot of concrete work. Before you add a layer on top you want to rough up the existing. On larger slabs you drill and epoxy rebar. I worried your slab might flake away in time. Just my 2 cents.
lollolololol
I've not tried to find any floor covering products yet, so if you have suggestions please post a link so I can see what you are talking about. Under the sump I always put a sheet of 3/4" foam. That's good insulation against temperature drop.