Blog Comments

Level the stand and then the tank, ultamitly once the stand is level the tank should be level. So shim the stand not the tank as it would put undue stress on the tank if you shim it

I would absolutely fix the leveling. I'd try to get it as exact as possible because it's likely to settle some and go uneven again.

I'd say it was safe to level the tank without the sump installed.

For overflow box and teeth... I'm not much help on that one. I don't know how much trim at the top you've got to work with, if you have a canopy that's going to fall down below that... the flow going through your return pumps, the linear inches that your overflow box will cover ect. There's a lot of math that will determine how high your waterline will raise when your return pumps get turned on. :-)

I'd say 3/8 glass would be better, but with the acrylic covering it as well I'd guess you to be safe with that setup. Glass overflows covered by acrylic are quite popular... and in many situations are an upgrade over a typical all acrylic overflows. That's usually in large tank setups with 3/8" or 1/2" glass though.

Looking forward to more updates!

P.s. - For those of you interested in more information on the tank and how it's made, the silicone I used, or pretty much anything, just go through my old blog entries. And thanks for the help!!

Thanks for all the input guys! What I got out of this is that, two mp10s will work, but bigger is always better!! I will continue to save up funds for my tank and am probably gonna go the MP40/MP10 route. It'll take a little longer to get up and running, but it's not like I was on an accelerated schedule anyway. I still have to put in my custom overflow cover, plumb the tank and sump together, and purchase the lights, powerheads, rock, sand, fish, and corals! So far I have: built my own stand, built (and rebuilt) my 40 gal. sump, got my: tank, protein skimmer, return pump, and most of my plumbing parts. It's a work in progress and has been for a little over a year... Hey, I'm a college kid, I gotta make my money stretch! Thanks again guys and if any of you have anymore input I recheck all my old posts from time to time so don't hesitate!

id go with a mp40 and an mp10 on Nutrient transport mode!

Would two MP10s be enough? Yes. But honestly I've got to tell you... the standing wave isn't near as cool as the mp10s reef crest mode for me. I bought an MP10 thinking I'd leave it on wave mode all the time, but I only put it on to show off when others are checking out the tank. I get the same nice flowing motion from my torch coral and stuff that flows around, but my overflow works properly and you barely notice the sound of the pumps changing speed near how you notice the on and off sound.

With mark's suggestion you'll have the ability to make a standing wave if you want with the mp40... and if you chose to run it that way you could... but you'll also have the random flow throughout the tank. SPS is going to love the extra flow, and really this is a win win discussion... it's going to work well either way!

As for 10x turnover through your sump... that's plenty. You want as many gph as your skimmer can handle. More is fine.

You'll never wish you didn't have two drains. You might wish you had two. I'd personally always go for two in case something clogs one up. :-)

Thanks for the input guys!

@cruelle - Could you elaborate on the "quality" of your flow? How far does it travel down the tank from one powerhead? How broad is the flow? Does it get behind the rockwork you have? Can you produce a standing wave? Answering any or all of these questions would be great.

@melev - I have considered that option, but I would really like to get a standing wave going. Do you think it would still be possible? I do like the idea of creating very caotic flow though. Which do you think is more important, wave like flow or randomized flow?

yeah i believe 2 mp10s would work well i have a single mp10 in my 55g, it provides more than enough flow but the flow is not even. i plan on purchasing another mp10 as soon as my wallet says its cool

I think an MP40 on one end and a well-placed MP10 on the back wall closer to the opposite end should give you interesting results.

Less than I week ago I bought 2 mp10's and they work great on my 75. Put one the side and I put on the back of the tank. Flow is great have them set in Eco smart tidal swell mode.

Two mp10's would probably work better than 1 mp40. Two mp40's would be overkill and you would have to turn them way down.

Oops, I fibbed. The drain is 1in. The returns are 3/4". I don't know why I cut down my dimensions by 1/4"... So, does anybody have any suggestions (just modify them based on the fact that my drain and return are 1/4" bigger than what I quoted). The most desired bit of information is the appropriate VorTech sizing. Keep in mind I'm not made of money - i.e. the MP60 would do the trick but... I'd rather go with a cheaper option in the VorTech line if I can help it.

I would never make a drain out of anything smaller than 1in. Here is a good article on the pumps and their flow http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2011/7/aafeature

Oh, I'm making a black acrylic overflow instead of clear. I think that will look WAY BETTER since it will hide the plumbing.

Wel, I went with option #2. The silicone has been curing for 2 days now so it's about time to lift the tank back to its stand. I will probably paint the tank first and then worry about getting it up where it belongs.

The next project is building a new overflow. The tank had one originally, but it was clear. When I re-siliconed the tank I took it out. It also only had one 1-1/4" Durso standpipe on it. Since I want to achieve 10 times tank turnover rate I'm thinking I should probably drill one more hole to get the overflow rating higher. I also want to make it 3-1/2" thick instead of 6 inches. That way the overflow will be longer and have more linear overflow length. I believe I determined 17-1/2" was about right for length so all told I would have 20 linear inches of overflow length!

Anyway, before I get carried away with questions on that I need to make the DIY on re-siliconing the inside of my tank. Thanks for all your help guys!!!

-Jeremy

i never a tank with black silicone but a friend just gave me a 72 bowfront with black and i really like the looks of it closest i ever had was old stainless tar and slate tanks. But id go with whats there

I don't think black would be good since your bonds are made with clear.

When you apply the masking tape on each side of the silicone bead, get it close to the joint. 1/4" away, at the most. Then after the silicone is applied and smoothed, remove the tape within 10 minutes. That's the perfect time to get a good clean look.

I'm positive my method was overkill, but with a seam failing, I expected others to be in like condition.

Well, we'll see if any dissent comes in but Central Aquatics, and you two guys said the same thing. Marc seemed like he was leaning towards a rebuild, but also said he had no official recommendation. I will probably go for option #2. To get a good straight line I will be using masking tape to help seal off the seams. The idea of using the spoon is a really good one. I have a tool for this purpose, but a spoon might give a better outcome, it wouldn't be compliant like my silicone tool so maybe I will experiment. And DJ, no worries, all my GE II is history. It's all Momentive 100 Series silicones for me from now on (unless they change the formula)! Also, thanks for the suggestion on using a 1/4" silicone bead.

Oh, any suggestions on color would be great. I got some clear stuff (the 108), but I was thinking about doing the corners in black (103) silicone to give the tank an Oceanic style. What do you guys think? Which would make the coral stand out better or make the tank look nicer in your opinions?

I was in the same position after looking over the seams good there where no gaps or bubbles. I took a razor blade and cut out the inside silicone I cut in flat with the side to the front and back glass so to have a point to cut to when cutting toward the silicone smashed between the glass. Youll probally have a smear of silicone left on the glass after cutting just re scrape what you can off and use denatured alcohol to clean the joints be for re gluing it will remove the rest of the silicone smear with a little rubbing and leaves no flim on the glass you can get it at any hardware store. Cut your tip on the tube about 1/4in opening. Trick is to lay a stead bead from bottom to top put about a nickel sized blob at the bottom and top makeing sure to lay the bead so it hits bought panes of glass. I used a small baby spoon to strike the joints after or they sell a small plastic tool to do the same. Ive tried to remove the top and bottom frames many time but they are usually brittle by the trime you need to re silicone the tank. And if any is mounted up on the edges after striking it leave it till it dries tring to fix it while wet just makes a ugly joint remove with a razor after it dries. Hope this helps good luck with your endeavor and remember no geII this time

#2 is what all of the local guys around here do also. Go for it! Take lots of pics and post the how to!