Blog Comments

I don't have any rotten egg smell and I didn't bury any rock in the sand. Now the sand I have is very large grain (so it would be more accurate to call it small gravel).

I have about 3" of the "sand" above the plenum. The sand that I used is the following: http://premiumaquatics.com/aquatic-s...C-RSAND40.html

I'm thinking of using the Tropic Eden Mini-Flakes or Reef-Flakes and eliminate the plenum. I'm going for a 3.5"-4" sand bed.

I would say start doing some large water changes maybe twice weekly to try and dilute what could be ailing your inhabitants. Run some fresh carbon and change it out 1-2 times a week with a fresh batch. I would try running a phosphate bad if you have a place that all your water runs through. instead of using phosphate x maybe you can switch over to vodka dosing, you should have more long term success with that I think.

If you are not running a DSB I think I would look under at the bottom of the sandbed to make sure you have no black sand deposits before changing your sandbed, if that gets disturbed it can wipe a tank (in fact check for that anyway) if you do have that problem I would suggest pulling the inhabitants of your tank, and and corals out then draining the water out before getting all the sand out to change it. then while your at it give everything a good scrub down and replace it with new sand and either new rock or cured old rock and you will have hit the reset button .

Do you have any rotten egg smell coming off the water or did you bury live rock during the last new live rock additions?

Thanks for the responses; I should have provided more back-ground.

I will post more to the blog with some pictures. (I can't figure out how to post pictures in comments)

For now: Tank is 150 Gallons + ~40 gallon custom sump from Melevsreef. I typically do a 40 gallon water change about 1 a month.

The tank and sandbed + plenum are over 10 years old. The liverock was changed out around 2 years ago to get rid of a mushroom plague. I got the rock from Coral Universe as a trade for the mushroom rock. I'm guessing he had the rock there for a while before I got it.

The Phosphates in the tank have not reduced much despite pulling back on feeding and with the phosphate RX. I also have a refugium with caulerpa that is growing well. I do have a filter sock running but I keep the bottom of the sump clean. In the refugium I have a sandbed as well.

I have an RO-DI and I've tested the water for phosphates and it reads 0.02PPM which is pretty good.

I'll post pictures on the blog tonight to show what I'm talking about here.

Like I've said I've had the tank for over 10 years and never had a die off like this. Especially the snails it's a big mystery to me so that's why I'm thinking about the total tank tear down. And since it is been up non-stop for 10 years thinking I have Old Tank Syndrome.

I gotdd

I have a few questions if you don't mind. How long has your tank been up and running? what is the total volume of water including sump? how often do you do water changes? what is your water change percentage when they are done? how old is the rock? since pulling the rock from the tank have the phosphates shown decline in the tank? do you have a sump? and if so do you keep it clean or does it have detritus building up in it? do you have a RO-DI unit? when were the filters changed in it last? have you tested your source water for phosphates?

I agree with paul.

I can't tell from here what killed your corals and snails but I doubt it is Old Tank Syndrome, I don't even think that exists. Snails are hard to kill but the only thing that will kill them fast is some type of metal poisoning which will also kill your corals. I wouldn't know how a metal like copper could get in your water but it will kill inverts while leaving fish alone for the most part.
While you had your algae spurt I would not have used any type of chemical to eliminate it or the phosphate, I am leary of chemicals that remove other chemicals.
I do however like algae to be used to remove chemicals and maybe even metals.
I would have let the algae grow until it used up all the nutrients, then it would have started to die and it will die very fast. At that point I would have used a canister filter like a diatom filter to quickly remove the dying algae "without" changing water. Let the algae remove whatever is in your water, then remove the algae. "Then" change water after all the algae is gone.
Your water, or your phosphate remover may be adding something to your water that would make it tough for corals and snails.
That is my recomendation, but Like I said, I can't see your tank from here.

Because the nut needs to tighten and not bind up against the gasket and get bunched up or creased. Having it against the flange, there is zero friction - simple direct even pressure. The nut can be snugged up tightly without resistance.

I would think it would be more important to keep the gasket on the inside of the sump versus on the flange side. Why is it important to get the gasket oriented on the flange side. Trying to understand.

The jig that midnight is talking about is the other half of the stuff you drilled. Instead of drilling out a hole in acrylic, drill it through some 3/4" plywood, then affix it to the sump with double stick tape. Now the plywood guide will keep the hole saw bit exactly where you want it, and you can start drilling.

I'm glad your method worked. I never would have tried that.

Regarding the orientation of a bulkhead, do whatever works best for you. I never reuse a bulkhead; it is always replaced when the time comes. However, do put the gasket on the flange side, which in this case is the outer half -- outside the sump. Dahenley is right.

just so you know, your gasket should be on the flange side, not the nut side of the bulkhead.

also, i always prefer to put the threaded side on the outside of the sump. in a month or so after starting your tank, the threads will be covered in crap and salt and calcium, and you will never get it off in the future.
you will endup having to cut it out if you ever need to change or adjust or fix a leak or something along those lines. (just thought i would share my opinion)

looks good!

the other way is using a jig clamped in place

It is only one eye for sure and yesterday I actually saw a bubble come out of the eye. Fish is still eating well but it sure looks scary.

I think it will work really well. Thanks!

When a fish has Pop-Eye it occurs in both eyes not just the one. When you see one eye that it bigger than the other or clouded over, it usually happens because of the fish running into something.

It can happen when a fish rubs its eye on a rock accidentally. They can heal on their own, with a healthy diet and no more abrasions. The pump isn't the cause.

So it holds water, eh?