Blog Comments

hey just a though your probably going to want to keep some extra prefilters and di resin around at 750 tsd incoming you will go thur some. While running is your prefilter cups staying full or is the water level dropping or do you every get a milky looking water from your spigots from air being in the water

We don't have booster pumps here, and I don't have one on my RO unit. I was looking into a permeate pump, looks like it may solve this problem (by eliminating the ASOV) and make the system more efficient overall. But first I will test water pressure at the unit and go from there.

I had the same trouble with mine it was in coming water volume was to low you can have pressure right and still have low flow. The hammering is air in the valve because your booster pump is pulling more volume then the incoming water is putting out ( my gauge still read good at 85psi while this was happening ) Cast iron lines in part of the house where the cause. Moved mine to otherside of the house by the in coming line and works great. I can tell you now that the asov does not work proper past 110 psi unrestricted mine is at 120 with the pump on and it is hit and miss with shutting off but back down to 110 it works flawlessly

You need 40 PSI for the membrane to operate properly, and 60-80 PSI for it to be very efficient.

If your system is leaking anywhere, for example if you use a float valve in a container instead of a ball valve cut off, it may not shut off.

Will try! If not then I'll order a new ASOV and a new check valve for grins. So Marc, is there a minimum pressure I should have or is that not related IYO?

Your system may have trapped air in it which is preventing the ASOV from functioning properly. With it turned on and producing water (without the DI section connected), lift one side up at a decent slope -- 30 degrees or so, and hold it for 20 seconds. Lower it back into normal position, then lift the opposing side and hold for 20 seconds. Any trapped air in the system should be forced out, and the ASOV should resume working properly. Turn it off and see if it shuts off.

My own decided today not to shut off. Guess it's time to replace mine as well.

i am sure there is a min pressure (what that pressure is, i dont know. but knowing your pressure will tell you when your filters are getting used partially clogged as well as let you know if you membrane will work correctly.
i asked what your pressure is, but if you know your membrane pressure (thats usually where most pressure gauges are installed so you know how things are working.) mark might be able to tell more.

Marc sells lots of RO units, and i havent heard any negative, so i would say if you got one from him, it would be of good quality. (make sure the water going in and out are correctly orientated.)
I got my unit from BRS, and have no problems, so its another option.

i asked if you have a booster pump, because if so, and you dont have a working pressure/electric switch, then it can over power the RO unit and cause the ASOV to not work.

First one came with the unit, the other two came from the hardware store. Not sure if incoming pressure. Is there a minimum pressure needed? Next step u guess would be to measure incoming pressure (need a pressure gauge) and then get a good ASOV from Melevs Reef?

oh, and where did you get the 3 different ASOV valves?

are you running a electric/premate booster pump, whats your source water inlet pressure?

Thanks for the input, I think I'll go that route. Just need to order up some black acrylic, as no one any where near me has any. Hopefully real soon I'll have this tank up and running!

Seems like it'll work out easily then.

Centered on the back wall.

Two pieces because there is an internal overflow (top to bottom) on the back wall.

1/4" should be fine. The more important seal is over the holes in question. The rest just has to hold, but none of it is doing anything other than cosmetics. Why two pieces? Due to the top's opening?

How thick do you suggest the sheet be if I do a full back overlay? It would actually be two peices, separated by the overflow area in the center. The back wall is 36" long by ~20" high.

Yes, that was my suggestion. Definitely glue it 100% around the two drilled holes, but also create a new clean back for your tank.

I think he means a piece of black acrylic that would go the entire length and width of the back. So it would be a new black back.

Yeah black acrylic would be the choice. Visualizing it in my head now, patching on the inside, even with black acrylic, would look pretty hoakie. I think perhaps I am better off with bulkheads, plugged with black plugs. I know either way it won't be ideal visually, but it is what it is.

Gluing an acrylic patch over each hole is doable, but should be done from inside so the water pressure is against the patch. How will you hide the patched areas?

#3 or #16 will do the job. Maybe the patch material should be black... maybe a full black back glued inside the tank would be best. Just thinking out loud since we haven't seen any pictures.