• Staggered Lighting - why?

    Over the years, I've kept a number of reef tanks with different lighting, but for the past two years, I've tried something new with something not so new. My reef tank is lit with metal halide (MH) bulbs in Lumenbright pendants, and supplemented with VHO actinic lighting. So far, I'm sure that sounds pretty standard, if not a little pricey. It was totally worth it, as I'm about to explain.

    The Lumenbright reflectors truly put out 300% more light than a standard reflector like the "batwing" or "spider" reflector. When I was about to upgrade to the better reflectors, I measured the intensity in various places in my reef with a PAR meter. One spot was in the center of the infamous Toadstool leather on the right side of my 280g reef. The old reflector, using a 250w 10,000K bulb with a magnetic ballast measured 144 on the meter. Once the new pendant was in place, the PAR measured 444 in the exact same spot.

    With such a huge jump in PAR, I was sure my corals would be burned. Heeding the advice of Mike at Reef Specialty, I opted to run each light 2 hours a day. I had three, so I set them up so each one came on after the last one turned off so I could look at my reef for 6 hours a day. Each week, I would increase the timers 1/2 hour longer. It took about two months to ramp each bulb up to 6 hours a day. And in doing so, I grew used to looking at my tank without all the lights on at once. It wasn't an easy thing to swallow, but over time it grew on me. The lights click on one by one until by 3:30 p.m. each day, the tank is fully lit. By 7 p.m., the first light clicks off and within a few more hours the lights are off again. It actually looks and feels more natural to me.

    Having the reef fully lit for 3.5 hours each day is what I call "high noon". In the image below, you'll see how the light phases work. I set up the camera and took pictures all day long to create this montage.


    Click the image to see a larger version.

    One of the perks of this method is that you don't use as much electricity, which many people are well aware of as they try to save money anywhere they can. Using better reflectors is key, because the reef gets a good burst of light for a shorter period. Additionally, these reflectors are hung higher over the tank, which helps avoid excessive heat issues. Without the heat, there's less reason for a chiller to run. Less electricity both in bulb use and chiller use is a boon for some. A real example would be if a hobbyist normally runs their MH bulbs 9 hours a day, this would be a 33% reduction in power consumption. 3 hours x 250w x 30 days = 22.5 kWh less than before. Add a chiller than usually runs at least 5 hours per day that now only runs perhaps 2.5 hours, and the savings is obvious.

    Another perk is the space I have to work in my tank with the pendants hanging 12" off the top of my tank. This puts the bulbs at 18" off the water, and they are behind tempered glass because the pendants come that way to keep the reflective surfaces clean.

    With the overlapping time periods of the bulbs, the corals still get some light even as the one overhead clicks off. It is a pleasing view as I gaze at some corals under the blue glow of the VHOs while a 10,000K bulb blasts another area at the opposite end. For those that like the actinic look, they can adjust the staggered lighting to suit their desires - providing enough light to get good growth and yet not have to see it all day long. The corals grew very well, actually better than my older lighting system.

    So in a nutshell, more light, less heat, less electricity usage, and aesthetically pleasing. Are you willing to try this yourself?

    Comments 22 Comments
    1. VitalApparatuz's Avatar
      VitalApparatuz -
      Ive cut my MH photoperiod down to 3-4 hrs a day.I run the actinic T5s for 8 hrs.I almost feel that I bought too much light (2 250's over a standard 75 gallon).I was burning the heck out of corals running MH for more than 5 hrs.Your way sounds intriguing but it does require that you have single ballasts for each lamp.Also I love the sunrise/sunset look of the staggered approach.BTW why no moonlights? Have you no romance?
    1. coigula's Avatar
      coigula -
      Melev,

      What is the name of the light meter in use? I am only aware of two brands being sold to hobbyists. I had to think that another option is 150 watt bulbs or even 70 watt bulbs run longer.

      I recently converted 10 frags from someone else that used only blue t5's to DE 250W with a good reflector. It took three months and things didn't look so good for awhile. I knew I was in trouble when he told me Halides are a waste of PAR.

      A light meter is one of the finishing touches on my system I might get but also might not get any new corals for a long time as I am pest free and enjoying it. I have new icecap light because I liked simple design. Reflector is better than 10 yo Aqualine Busche light but not as good as yours I'm sure. It had a narrow/medium dispersion that crosses other lamp at about 18" below surface. I run 250 watt bulbs (same ballast and plug alone), during day and run LED dawn/dusk and tun LED with t5 for viewing times in evening.
    1. hardaur's Avatar
      hardaur -
      Excellent write-up. I've always staggard my lighting Actinics -> other T5s -> MH then reverse. But have been thinking about different things to do and the independent MH and "noon" concept I think gives me some inspiration ; )

      Gerald
    1. melev's Avatar
      melev -
      VitalAppatuz - Since I run my refugium lighting on a reverse cycle (10 p.m. to 6 a.m.) I get a tiny glow of light that makes it into the reef. It pretty much silhouettes the outline of the corals and rockwork. I've never felt the need for an actual moonlight. I do have the new LED retro lighting from IceCap to install over my reef, but I'm pretty sure they will run in conjunction with the VHOs. I'll have to decide what looks best when, and make sure I don't overpower the corals with the pinpoint light LEDs tend to produce. I have lots of ballasts, so turning each one on independently is simple. Some dual ballasts come with two power cords. Plug each cord into their own timer to control them one by one.

      coigula - I'm using a digital meter by Apogee. It is held in place on a tripod, and the sensor is attached to an acrylic handle I fabricated.





      The meter lets me measure the amount of light where the coral came from if I have it with me, like getting frags from a fellow hobbyist. It also lets me know how much light is in the tank, and if I need to make any adjustments. As bulbs age, the PAR drops. I can see when the bulb needs to be replaced, and also compare the old bulb to the new one in case I need to adjust the duration that the new bulb is on to avoid burning the corals' tips.

      hardaur - Be sure to let us know how it works for you in a blog.
    1. bleachandvomit's Avatar
      bleachandvomit -
      We need more articles like this one, actual number data and photos are much appreciated. I'm going to utilize something like this with some par38 lamps.
    1. Boulfish's Avatar
      Boulfish -
      For the past 5 years my lighting has been the actinic are power compacts 96 watt that run 8am to 8 pm and the metal halides are 2 150 watt hqi and run 9am to 7 pm and the moons run 8pm to 8am, the refugium lights are on this time too.
    1. melev's Avatar
      melev -
      So are you saying you are going to try something different, Boulfish?
    1. VitalApparatuz's Avatar
      VitalApparatuz -
      Quote Originally Posted by VitalApparatuz View Post
      Ive cut my MH photoperiod down to 3-4 hrs a day.I run the actinic T5s for 8 hrs.I almost feel that I bought too much light (2 250's over a standard 75 gallon).I was burning the heck out of corals running MH for more than 5 hrs.Your way sounds intriguing but it does require that you have single ballasts for each lamp.Also I love the sunrise/sunset look of the staggered approach.BTW why no moonlights? Have you no romance?
      Ah I hadn't thought of being able to run both lights that way on a single ballast.The montage is excellent thanks!
    1. chark's Avatar
      chark -
      Do you see any differences in your coral growth or color since putting the light routine in place. Thanks for the interesting article.
    1. BigAl07's Avatar
      BigAl07 -
      Most EXCELLENT article! This solves a few different "wants" for me. I love the "asymmetrical" look and this would accomplish this while also saving some energy and bulb life. That's a win-Win-WIN in my books! I will be doing something like this on my next build!! You da MAN!!

      A.
    1. BigAl07's Avatar
      BigAl07 -
      What are you using as a "Controller" for this? Individual timers (doubtful) of a full function "Controller"?
    1. Alaska_Phil's Avatar
      Alaska_Phil -
      I don't get the same effect, but I put the front and back half of my T5's on separate timers so for 2 hours in the morning, and 2 hours in the evening only half the lights are on. I've noticed my toadstool seems to open up more during those 1/2 light times. And my mushrooms are looking healthier all day.
    1. melev's Avatar
      melev -
      Quote Originally Posted by BigAl07 View Post
      What are you using as a "Controller" for this? Individual timers (doubtful) of a full function "Controller"?
      I use an Aquacontroller III to turn on lights and heaters. It measures pH, Temperature and ORP, and I can check on my tank via my iPhone whenever I wish. Two lights are on real plug in timers because of some x-10 issues that I've not bothered to overcome. However, all my other stuff runs off the controller, which I programmed to my heart's content. It turns on the MH and VHOs over my reef, the light over the propagation section and over the angled tank.
    1. Jynxgirl's Avatar
      Jynxgirl -
      This is a great write up. I had heat issues so I was doing this for the last few years on my 180. I wouldn't turn mh lights on until like 1pm, and my mh's had a 5 hour period they were each on, coming on staggered 1 and a half hours after each other. I had the vho's come on at 5pm as then I could see the tank when I got home around that time. My a/c in the house would kick on for the night cooling at 4 just about when my tank was needing it.

      Now I just have a 2ft cube. over her in Dubai (I can not wait to go home to my big tank.. or a bigger tank). Its light is on a lot as I dont pay my electricity bill Prob should add some led lighting so to see the tank at night and not keep my halide on and be a bit more environmentally conscious.
    1. BigAl07's Avatar
      BigAl07 -
      Jynxgirl I think you'd LOVE the look of your tank under LEDs for night-time viewing. I've got an LED bar from Profilux over mine and LOVE the look plus it's programmed to match the phase of the moon. So cool to see it change from night to night as the moon really changes in the night sky.
    1. Mr. Acro's Avatar
      Mr. Acro -
      So mimicking the sun, have you noticed any difference in the coral growth? I like the ideal. I wonder if it work as well with T5's. I have 8 T5's on two 660 ballast. I'm changing the bulbs out this week with the new wave point bulbs. I'm trying these bulbs out for the first time and am goinkng to set up the cycle on a staggered time
    1. melev's Avatar
      melev -
      I think my tank had good coral growth under this type of lighting, but I doubt you could have the same look with T5 bulbs because of the lack of a spotlight effect. You can turn on pairs of bulbs to build the intensity and then lower it back to less bulbs each day, but the tank would simply look brighter and then more dim, but it wouldn't look staggered with the light moving across the tank throughout the day.
    1. Mr. Acro's Avatar
      Mr. Acro -
      So I guess there's no reason than to stagger the start times on my setup. Maybe the only benefit would be the fish not being startled.
    1. clstreak's Avatar
      clstreak -
      I still havent bought a light setup for my 75g RR system anyone have recoemdations it sounds like 2 250mh sounds about right for this and maybe a couple of t5 actinics supliments.. Any thoughts would be appreciated.. I have the tanks sump skimmer heaters just need to build the stand canopy.. sounds like this reflector would be perfect.. thanks in advance..
      Neil
    1. melev's Avatar
      melev -
      Yes, a couple of 250w 10,000K or 12,000K bulbs with some T5 actinic supplementation would be perfect, clstreak. You'll want the canopy to be tall to accommodate these reflectors.