• Plumbing Primer - how to do it correctly

    The bulkhead installed in the poly tank is threaded internally, and accepts a threaded 1.5" fitting. I opted to use an elbow to keep the pump out of the way.

    How to wrap teflon tape correctly
    If you wrap the tape on the threads backwards, it will peel off as you screw in the part. It is very important to wrap the tape in the same direction as the threads, as this will keep the teflon tape in place as you screw it tight.

    Hold the fitting in your right hand.


    Using your index finger, hold the teflon tape in place at the top of the fitting and pull the tape down and under, then back behind and around. You'll wrap the tape around the fitting clockwise four to six times.


    Once you have a thick layer of tape, tug hard to rip it, then smooth it down into the threads.


    For added security, you can also use Teflon Paste. I use this on all threaded fittings, especially when installing external pumps. It is going to be trapped in the threaded fitting so it is very unlikely to come in contact with saltwater. If it has, it hasn't affected my livestock. As you work, inspect the insides if you can and wipe away excess if necessary.


    Smooth the paste to fill all the threads. If the fitting is somewhat oval, the paste will fit that tiny gap.


    Screw it into place, as snugly as possible. Don't use wrenches -- you may crack the bulkhead over-tightening. You want it very firm, but don't go crazy okay?


    Now that the 1.5" elbow is in place, it is time to reduce the size to 1" for the rest of the project. The next fitting is the 1.5" to 1" reducer.


    Be sure to put down some type of newspaper or plastic drop cloth to protect your flooring. These solvents will definitely leave their mark so be very careful. I'm using clear cleaner/primer instead of the common purple colored product. Purple works too - and it even allows you to see where you've used it and what was missed. One trick that you may choose to do is to tape the two cans together, as this keeps them together and reduces the risk of knocking one over. As you work, it is good to always put the brush & lid back in place, and screwing the lid closed is even better if you aren't working quickly. A sealed can won't spill when toppled.

    Using PVC cleaner, rub the included brush on the surface to clean the outer section of the fitting and the inner section of the elbow. You want both areas that are about to be bonded to be completely clean. The cleaner will remove all kinds of oils and even some of the ink on the fitting. Any labels should be peeled off of course.




    Do the exact same thing with the PVC cement, applying it to both parts about to be bonded. You do not need to wait for the primer to dry to proceed...




    Press and hold that fitting in place, waiting 20 seconds.


    While holding it firmly, you can run your finger around the joint to wipe away the excess glue. Wipe your fingertip off on the drop cloth or a handy towel. Keeping your hands clean results in a cleaner looking project. Wiping the excess away forms a nice clean fillet around the joint that also may seal up a spot that was open moments before.


    That's how you glue two fittings together. Each fitting should take about 10 seconds to clean, 5 seconds to apply the cement, and then 20 seconds to hold it together. Press it together firmly, and when possible twist it 1/8" one direction or the other to create a friction rub of solvent within the fitting. This reduces bare spots. If you don't hold the plumbing together, you'll see the piece slowly emerge out of the fitting and less surface area will be bonded. A loose connection can also be a crooked one. Seat it firmly and hold it in place for those 20 seconds, then proceed to the next part. If you take your time and pay close attention to what you are doing, you'll end up with plumbing that doesn't leak.

    Fittings glued together can not be undone. If you make a mistake, you can not extract the piece without doing significant damage to the two parts. Cut off the blunder, and do it over. Couplings (not pictured) are cheap and are great for repairs.

    The next piece is a ball valve. I want to be able to close the valve and keep the water in the reservoir, especially when it has more than 200g in it. A piece of PVC pipe needs to go between the reducer the the ball valve. Using PVC cutters, cut off a section about 5" long to glue between the two parts. Once glued, 3" of PVC pipe will show. The cutters are easy to use. Other options: hacksaw, jigsaw, skill saw, miter saw, or handsaw. The cut should be straight and clean. All burrs should be removed, which can be done with some sandpaper. The PVC cutters provide a nice clean cut.





    Quick visual inspection to verify length.


    The PVC pipe needs both ends cleaned with the cleaner/primer, as well as the inside of the previous reducer fitting and the inside of the ball valve. I prefer to apply the cleaner to the fitting right over the can's opening so if it drips, it drips into the can again.




    Apply the glue to both parts.


    Press and hold. Note where the ball valve handle is, and make sure there is clearance to open and close it. If it is too close to the container or wall and can't be turned, that would be problematic. Using 45 degree fittings, it could be re-routed to create some space, or perhaps rotating the body of the valve to the side to make sure the handle has proper clearance.


    Wipe away the excess glue all the way around the fitting (360 degrees).


    The next fitting is a 45 degree fitting. Again a small piece of PVC was necessary.








    From the 45 degree fitting, it next connects to the union leading to the pump.


    Return pumps tend to vibrate and that can lead to resonance within the holding container (or sump). To avoid vibration issues, I prefer to use SpaFlex tubing. It comes in white and is sold primarily for hot tubs. I happened to have some black spaflex handy, and used it. Spaflex is flexible PVC tubing. It can be heated up in the sun (in the summer) or in an oven (preheated to 200F and then only warmed for 5 minutes!) to bend it as needed, but this spot didn't need anything special. The PVC cement I'm using is rated for PVC, ABS and Spaflex, so I was able to proceed without having to change glues.





    Checking for length & layout.


    Primer


    Glue


    Press and hold 30 seconds. This one really needs extra time since the material is pliable.


    Primer & glue for the end of the union onto the spaflex, and hold for 30 seconds.


    Continue to the next page as we plumb the pump itself.
    Comments 22 Comments
    1. drimo's Avatar
      drimo -
      You had to *slip* your lubricant of choice in there. That container would make a lot of vodka.

      Excellent series of articles! I am getting ready to plumb my new 40 breeder and this will help a lot. I already have most of the parts, just need a few more things for the plumbing. I'll write something up soon when I have time. Thanks for writing this!
    1. marks69's Avatar
      marks69 -
      i'm not going to ask how you found out the lube works well.lol
      for your ro di water you could also use the t first then 2 shut offs. that way if the ato craps out you can shut just that off and still be making water. my world seems to die on me so i try to make things easy to fix.lol
      nice looking work though.
    1. masharp1126's Avatar
      masharp1126 -
      Nice idea on using the plumber's silicon on the threads of the union, I hadn't thought of that.

      A couple of areas that I do use it on are; the round rubber gasket on all unions and tru-union or single-union ball valves, as well as I'll take my ball valves, close them all the way, and rub some inside on the ball section. Then open and close it several times to ensure it's lubricated well. Makes it easier to open and close them down the road.
    1. Tbeau's Avatar
      Tbeau -
      Where and how much for the container. I would love to get a 100 gallon one. I am in mid process of converting from 75 to 120 gallon tank. I use a 40 gallon now and is not to my liking.
    1. drimo's Avatar
      drimo -
      What is the difference between schedule 40 and schedule 80? Your double union ball-valve from Savko appears to be schedule 80; what makes that different than the schedule 40 double union ball-valve sold by Lowe's?
    1. mr. fix it's Avatar
      mr. fix it -
      great article marc. i've done alot of pvc work and would like to add a few tips. i was always taught to use sandpaper on the inside slip end of fittings, 120 grit works good it helps the primer to soften the fittings for glue up. i always use food grade silicone paste on o-rings, like on the unions, protien skimmers, or anything else with rubber parts, even suction cups. i bought a couple of 2 oz containers through amazon.com of if you have a scuba diving shop near by, there only 2-3 bucks each and last a long time. there's another pvc part i like to use when necessary, it's mainly used for plumbing repairs, it's called a slip fix. it comes in different pipe sizes, and is a telescoping repair coupling. it will adjust about 3", and has o rings to seal. lastly most of the time when working with threaded pvc fitting you only need to make them hand tight, don't crank on them with a wrench because you will split the female end. especially when working with bulkhead fittings.
    1. Hat39406's Avatar
      Hat39406 -
      Hey Marc, I may be seeing it wrong, not sure, but I would have the pump a few inches off the ground. For safety reasons. Just an idea. ;-)
    1. Sisterlimonpot's Avatar
      Sisterlimonpot -
      I knew when I read that those gaskets are used on skimmers that Astroglide would make another appearance, I shouldn't comment on the level, should I?.

      It makes me want to track down your other posts about the subject....

      Great article Marc, I need to add it to my favorites so I can link others to it. thanks.
    1. melev's Avatar
      melev -
      Quote Originally Posted by marks69 View Post
      for your ro di water you could also use the t first then 2 shut offs.
      Once the vat was full, that's exactly what I did. First I wanted to shut off the water going into the room, but then like you pointed out, I needed to isolate the line from the 265g and yet still be able to make water for the RO reservoir.

      Quote Originally Posted by masharp1126 View Post
      A couple of areas that I do use it on are; the round rubber gasket on all unions and tru-union or single-union ball valves, as well as I'll take my ball valves, close them all the way, and rub some inside on the ball section. Then open and close it several times to ensure it's lubricated well. Makes it easier to open and close them down the road.
      Good suggestions!

      Quote Originally Posted by Tbeau View Post
      Where and how much for the container. I would love to get a 100 gallon one. I am in mid process of converting from 75 to 120 gallon tank. I use a 40 gallon now and is not to my liking.
      I got the container from a seller advertising via Craigslist. Got it for $120 new, which was a bargain. He had 5 of them for sale at a vodka distillery, up in Richardson. It was just over an hour away, but I couldn't beat the price. Plus I got to bring home a bottle of vodka to try out.

      Quote Originally Posted by drimo View Post
      What is the difference between schedule 40 and schedule 80? Your double union ball-valve from Savko appears to be schedule 80; what makes that different than the schedule 40 double union ball-valve sold by Lowe's?
      The difference is the thickness of the material. However, I don't think the DUBV is Sch80 even though the fitting is gray. The connections looks like Sch40 to me - Savko.com sells these. A member in our club had three for sale once and I bought them since they were brand new. The SUBV (single union ball valve) at Lowes is a bad purchase, it turns out. I have a couple of those in my garage. If you take the union off, there's nothing to keep the ball valve sealed. The union holds the ball socket in place - once I took it apart in the store I had a bad feeling about it but it was in stock and I needed them. However, I never trusted them and put that project on hold. The Savko ones are excellent and easy to use. I highly recommend them.

      Quote Originally Posted by Hat39406 View Post
      Hey Marc, I may be seeing it wrong, not sure, but I would have the pump a few inches off the ground. For safety reasons. Just an idea. ;-)
      There's no need. If the poly tank ruptures, that thing will be flooded in an instant. But if there's a leak, the french drain is there to take away any water in the room. I doubt I'd find 1/2" of water on the floor; the body is high enough to keep the motor dry.

      Thanks for the extra tips, Mr. Fix It.

      Glad it helped, Sisterlimonpot.
    1. Snakebyt's Avatar
      Snakebyt -
      awesome write up as usual, great to see the tank coming together.

      I was unaware that there was a different glue to be used when working with spa flex, i have just used regular glue in the past and guess i was either lucky or the glue was made for spa flex as well. Next time i go to buy glue, i will defenatly make sure it is made for spa flex.

      thanks for the great write up.
    1. lurchix's Avatar
      lurchix -
      Marc:

      What purpose is served by having the union on top of the pump when there's a double union on the ball valve immediately above? 'Twould seem one of the unions there is redundant?

      Thanks, Lurch
    1. melev's Avatar
      melev -
      Habit more than anything. I prefer unions right on the pump's inlet/outlet. In this case, the DUBV was a slip fitting, while the pump was threaded. I suppose I could have got a coupling that was threaded on one side and slip on the other. That would have been about $.75 instead of the $2.50 I paid for my union.
    1. Muttley000's Avatar
      Muttley000 -
      Another great write up Marc! Looking forward to the tank plumbing article you mentioned
    1. Midnight's Avatar
      Midnight -
      I like to use silicone on all threaded fittings as opposed to tape and paste. Silicone seals great and makes turning of fittings super easy. Also when possible, when using unions I prefer to have the collar on the stationary side of plumbing instead of the pump side of the union.
    1. melev's Avatar
      melev -
      Quote Originally Posted by Midnight View Post
      I like to use silicone on all threaded fittings as opposed to tape and paste. Silicone seals great and makes turning of fittings super easy.
      How long do you wait for it to cure?
    1. Midnight's Avatar
      Midnight -
      Just an hour or so usually. I have done this on my pool plumbing and turned on pump immediately with 1 1/2 hp pump with no problems. The silicone really fills all the gaps well. Just coat the threads and screw them in, also works on bulkheads.
    1. DETANE's Avatar
      DETANE -
      Great write up. Definitely a large amount of useful information that will help many reef addicts.
    1. kitch40's Avatar
      kitch40 -
      Marc, my return pump setup for our new 125 tank rated 1250 gphall came with 3/4" od hose barbs,and the same size on the inlet tubes to the tank. is that big enough fittings or would it be good to increase the size? THX Marc
    1. melev's Avatar
      melev -
      I would increase the plumbing between the pump and the bulkhead. 1" would be good. This avoids pressure and restriction for the first 2.5' or so.
    1. kitch40's Avatar
      kitch40 -
      Thanks Marc