• Plumbing Primer - how to do it correctly

    For many years, I have received hundreds if not thousands of requests for help with plumbing. An article is what was needed, and at last you will get your wish. The first thing you need to know is that there are many ways of accomplishing the same thing, and the most often reason for this is a lack of available parts. Even with a clear plan in mind, sometimes it requires buying alternate pieces to get the same results. The trick is knowing what is available to use, and avoiding common mistakes that cause unnecessary restrictions in flow / drainage. Some stores carry specific items that another won't, and vice versa.

    **This article is multi-page format, meaning you will have to click to the next page in the drop down menu available at the top and bottom of each page. **

    General rules of thumb:
    • You can make mistakes - it's okay. Redoing a section is as simple as replacing a few fittings.
    • It's cheaper than hiring a plumber - well, generally speaking. The fittings are going to add up quickly, shockingly so. And if you flood the area, that can be expensive to repair.
    • Common household tools are all you need - yes, this is true. Nicer tools provide better overall results.
    • Always use primer & cement. No matter what you are told, this is indisputable to avoid leaks.
    • It is safe to use with your reef - yes, with this stipulation: fresh glue has toxins, but once cured for a few hours and rinsed clean it is completely safe. If you have to glue in a section in an emergency, glue all you can away from the tank, let it set up, rinse it under water (garden hose or in the tub) and then glue only the last one or two fittings inline. Reducing the total amount of fresh glue in your total water volume is the goal.
    • Not all fittings are made the same. Some fittings are slightly oval instead of round; some unions won't match others that look the same because of variants during different production runs; some components are just a bad choice period and often you'll be told about some evil part after you've installed it.
    • No metal is allowed in a saltwater set up, ever. No copper, no brass, no lead - all plastic parts all the time.
    Here are some of the tools you'll want:
    • Sharpie
    • Box cutter
    • PVC cutter
    • teflon tape
    • teflon paste
    • PVC primer and cement




    The next thing you need is a general sketch of the idea. Do this before you head to the store, and think about what you need for the entire project. Write a shopping list. Then as you buy the parts, lay them out like a jigsaw puzzle in your shopping cart to visualize what you're getting and what's been forgotten or omitted.



    Once you get home, you'll have something that looks like this...



    ...and at least one of these, the cheapest part of the entire project. This is a 10' section of 1" Schedule 40 PVC pipe. Industry standard, comes in sizes 1/2" to 3" at any hardware store.


    Here are some plumbing basics, fitting by fitting. Everything is 1" unless otherwise stated.

    PVC Elbow
    This is a 90 degree elbow fitting. Both openings are smooth inside, so it is called a slip/slip fitting. It is also sold with one or both openings threaded internally.



    This is a threaded/slip elbow, which would only be used for specific applications like this one. It is 1.5" x 1.5"




    PVC 45

    This is a 45 degree fitting. Both openings are smooth inside (slip/slip). The benefit of this fitting is to soften a corner or to align plumbing that can't be joined with a 90 degree elbow.




    PVC Adapter or Reducer
    This fitting is designed to fit inside a larger piece of plumbing to create a smaller inside diameter. If the plumbing is 1.5" and needs to switch down to 1", use a reducer. Reducers can be slip/slip, slip/threaded, or even threaded/threaded.

    Slip:






    Threaded:







    PVC Tee fitting
    This fitting allows an extra line to be added to the main line. Tee fittings come in slip/slip/slip configuration, and the perpendicular opening can even come in a smaller size. For example a 1" Tee may have a 3/4" or 1/2" threaded opening, such as used for long runs underground that have a sprinkler pipe screwed in every 20' pointing upwards. When purchasing Tees, look at every one of the closely to avoid bringing home a mixture. Better yet, buy the bulk bag that has 10 identical ones, and return what you didn't need.




    PVC Ball valve

    The ball valve comes in various colors depending on application. White with red handles is pretty standard. The handle is hard to turn, and should be opened and closed periodically to prevent them from freezing into one position. It is used to close off a pipe when you need to work on the next section or to remove a pump without draining everything in the system first.

    Ball valves come in all sizes, and are usually sold slip/slip or threaded/threaded.






    PVC Union
    This fitting is one of my favorite choices when joining two sections of PVC together because I can take it apart later. The most likely place to use these is before and after an external return pump that needs to be removed from time to time for servicing. Unions can be used where plumbing needs to be removed temporarily, such as when you have to extract a skimmer from a tight spot under the tank and the drain line is in the way. Be sure when you purchase these that you open them up and make sure the black O-ring is included.








    Double Union Ball Valve
    This is the best of both with a union on each end and a ball valve in the center. These cost more, and usually have to be purchased online from Savko.com but are totally worth it. The handles are very easy to turn, and plumbing can be removed from either end.






    Uniseals
    The uniseal is a handy rubber grommet that goes in the side of a sump or water storage container. PVC is pressed through the uniseal creating a water-tight bond. Uniseals take up less space than a standard bulkhead. This too was needed specifically for this project, and had to be purchased online. (You may have noticed these on some protein skimmers.)




    Mix and Match Unions
    Sometimes you will want one side of the union to be slip with the opposite side threaded. I need the threaded side to screw onto the pump's inlet and outlet, and I need the plumbing to glue into the other half. Buy one of each, and swap out the parts to get the 50/50 (slip/threaded) combination.

    Standard, slip on the left & threaded on the right.


    Swapping the two middle pieces...


    Done.



    Now that you know what these parts are, it's time to tackle a project. I had to plumb an external pump to a 265-gallon poly tank that will store saltwater. Water needs to exit the base of the poly tank, flow through a pump that pushes it back up to the top and pours back down, mixing and circulating the saltwater so it's always ready.

    Before doing anything else, lay out your project so you can see how it will progress.









    A common question I get is what goes between the fittings. That would be a small piece of that 10' long PVC pipe you saw pictured above. No hardware store is going to sell you 2" and 3" long pieces of PVC, but you can purchase shorter sections that are 24" long. It's far more economical to buy the full stick of PVC and cut it down as needed.

    • Every fitting has a specific depth the PVC can sink in, so measure the distance between the two fittings and include the socket depth of each fitting.
    • During a dry test run, you will not be able to push the pipe fully into the socket. If you did, you won't be able to take it apart unless you've got brute strength. Press them together slightly to get an idea of what is supposed to happen, but remember during the gluing process they will sink in further - this can make your section become too short if you aren't thinking ahead. Take your time and measure carefully.
    Let's get started. Continue to Page 2.

    Comments 22 Comments
    1. drimo's Avatar
      drimo -
      You had to *slip* your lubricant of choice in there. That container would make a lot of vodka.

      Excellent series of articles! I am getting ready to plumb my new 40 breeder and this will help a lot. I already have most of the parts, just need a few more things for the plumbing. I'll write something up soon when I have time. Thanks for writing this!
    1. marks69's Avatar
      marks69 -
      i'm not going to ask how you found out the lube works well.lol
      for your ro di water you could also use the t first then 2 shut offs. that way if the ato craps out you can shut just that off and still be making water. my world seems to die on me so i try to make things easy to fix.lol
      nice looking work though.
    1. masharp1126's Avatar
      masharp1126 -
      Nice idea on using the plumber's silicon on the threads of the union, I hadn't thought of that.

      A couple of areas that I do use it on are; the round rubber gasket on all unions and tru-union or single-union ball valves, as well as I'll take my ball valves, close them all the way, and rub some inside on the ball section. Then open and close it several times to ensure it's lubricated well. Makes it easier to open and close them down the road.
    1. Tbeau's Avatar
      Tbeau -
      Where and how much for the container. I would love to get a 100 gallon one. I am in mid process of converting from 75 to 120 gallon tank. I use a 40 gallon now and is not to my liking.
    1. drimo's Avatar
      drimo -
      What is the difference between schedule 40 and schedule 80? Your double union ball-valve from Savko appears to be schedule 80; what makes that different than the schedule 40 double union ball-valve sold by Lowe's?
    1. mr. fix it's Avatar
      mr. fix it -
      great article marc. i've done alot of pvc work and would like to add a few tips. i was always taught to use sandpaper on the inside slip end of fittings, 120 grit works good it helps the primer to soften the fittings for glue up. i always use food grade silicone paste on o-rings, like on the unions, protien skimmers, or anything else with rubber parts, even suction cups. i bought a couple of 2 oz containers through amazon.com of if you have a scuba diving shop near by, there only 2-3 bucks each and last a long time. there's another pvc part i like to use when necessary, it's mainly used for plumbing repairs, it's called a slip fix. it comes in different pipe sizes, and is a telescoping repair coupling. it will adjust about 3", and has o rings to seal. lastly most of the time when working with threaded pvc fitting you only need to make them hand tight, don't crank on them with a wrench because you will split the female end. especially when working with bulkhead fittings.
    1. Hat39406's Avatar
      Hat39406 -
      Hey Marc, I may be seeing it wrong, not sure, but I would have the pump a few inches off the ground. For safety reasons. Just an idea. ;-)
    1. Sisterlimonpot's Avatar
      Sisterlimonpot -
      I knew when I read that those gaskets are used on skimmers that Astroglide would make another appearance, I shouldn't comment on the level, should I?.

      It makes me want to track down your other posts about the subject....

      Great article Marc, I need to add it to my favorites so I can link others to it. thanks.
    1. melev's Avatar
      melev -
      Quote Originally Posted by marks69 View Post
      for your ro di water you could also use the t first then 2 shut offs.
      Once the vat was full, that's exactly what I did. First I wanted to shut off the water going into the room, but then like you pointed out, I needed to isolate the line from the 265g and yet still be able to make water for the RO reservoir.

      Quote Originally Posted by masharp1126 View Post
      A couple of areas that I do use it on are; the round rubber gasket on all unions and tru-union or single-union ball valves, as well as I'll take my ball valves, close them all the way, and rub some inside on the ball section. Then open and close it several times to ensure it's lubricated well. Makes it easier to open and close them down the road.
      Good suggestions!

      Quote Originally Posted by Tbeau View Post
      Where and how much for the container. I would love to get a 100 gallon one. I am in mid process of converting from 75 to 120 gallon tank. I use a 40 gallon now and is not to my liking.
      I got the container from a seller advertising via Craigslist. Got it for $120 new, which was a bargain. He had 5 of them for sale at a vodka distillery, up in Richardson. It was just over an hour away, but I couldn't beat the price. Plus I got to bring home a bottle of vodka to try out.

      Quote Originally Posted by drimo View Post
      What is the difference between schedule 40 and schedule 80? Your double union ball-valve from Savko appears to be schedule 80; what makes that different than the schedule 40 double union ball-valve sold by Lowe's?
      The difference is the thickness of the material. However, I don't think the DUBV is Sch80 even though the fitting is gray. The connections looks like Sch40 to me - Savko.com sells these. A member in our club had three for sale once and I bought them since they were brand new. The SUBV (single union ball valve) at Lowes is a bad purchase, it turns out. I have a couple of those in my garage. If you take the union off, there's nothing to keep the ball valve sealed. The union holds the ball socket in place - once I took it apart in the store I had a bad feeling about it but it was in stock and I needed them. However, I never trusted them and put that project on hold. The Savko ones are excellent and easy to use. I highly recommend them.

      Quote Originally Posted by Hat39406 View Post
      Hey Marc, I may be seeing it wrong, not sure, but I would have the pump a few inches off the ground. For safety reasons. Just an idea. ;-)
      There's no need. If the poly tank ruptures, that thing will be flooded in an instant. But if there's a leak, the french drain is there to take away any water in the room. I doubt I'd find 1/2" of water on the floor; the body is high enough to keep the motor dry.

      Thanks for the extra tips, Mr. Fix It.

      Glad it helped, Sisterlimonpot.
    1. Snakebyt's Avatar
      Snakebyt -
      awesome write up as usual, great to see the tank coming together.

      I was unaware that there was a different glue to be used when working with spa flex, i have just used regular glue in the past and guess i was either lucky or the glue was made for spa flex as well. Next time i go to buy glue, i will defenatly make sure it is made for spa flex.

      thanks for the great write up.
    1. lurchix's Avatar
      lurchix -
      Marc:

      What purpose is served by having the union on top of the pump when there's a double union on the ball valve immediately above? 'Twould seem one of the unions there is redundant?

      Thanks, Lurch
    1. melev's Avatar
      melev -
      Habit more than anything. I prefer unions right on the pump's inlet/outlet. In this case, the DUBV was a slip fitting, while the pump was threaded. I suppose I could have got a coupling that was threaded on one side and slip on the other. That would have been about $.75 instead of the $2.50 I paid for my union.
    1. Muttley000's Avatar
      Muttley000 -
      Another great write up Marc! Looking forward to the tank plumbing article you mentioned
    1. Midnight's Avatar
      Midnight -
      I like to use silicone on all threaded fittings as opposed to tape and paste. Silicone seals great and makes turning of fittings super easy. Also when possible, when using unions I prefer to have the collar on the stationary side of plumbing instead of the pump side of the union.
    1. melev's Avatar
      melev -
      Quote Originally Posted by Midnight View Post
      I like to use silicone on all threaded fittings as opposed to tape and paste. Silicone seals great and makes turning of fittings super easy.
      How long do you wait for it to cure?
    1. Midnight's Avatar
      Midnight -
      Just an hour or so usually. I have done this on my pool plumbing and turned on pump immediately with 1 1/2 hp pump with no problems. The silicone really fills all the gaps well. Just coat the threads and screw them in, also works on bulkheads.
    1. DETANE's Avatar
      DETANE -
      Great write up. Definitely a large amount of useful information that will help many reef addicts.
    1. kitch40's Avatar
      kitch40 -
      Marc, my return pump setup for our new 125 tank rated 1250 gphall came with 3/4" od hose barbs,and the same size on the inlet tubes to the tank. is that big enough fittings or would it be good to increase the size? THX Marc
    1. melev's Avatar
      melev -
      I would increase the plumbing between the pump and the bulkhead. 1" would be good. This avoids pressure and restriction for the first 2.5' or so.
    1. kitch40's Avatar
      kitch40 -
      Thanks Marc