• IceCap's Retro LED Moonlighting

    When I first saw these bulbs at MACNA 2009, I was entranced. They were different from the LEDs I'd seen before, looking more like a row of tiny buttons instead of the more common colored bubble-like bulbs of the past. They were in a clear tube that strongly resembled a T5 bulb. The back side or upper half was a full-length aluminum heat sink, and they were purported to last years.





    A few months later, when I attended the Boston Reefers' BRASS event, I had more time to study these bulbs. I was impressed by their brightness, and how feather-light they were. I was concerned that some hobbyists might not realize that they were NOT a T5 bulb, and install the tube of LEDs into the wrong sockets of the new IceCap lamp fixture only to ruin the bulb due to voltage issues. Yes, their fixture has a small sticker that states "LED bulb" but sometimes people don't notice those small details. I even suggested they paint the socket/endcap a different color to avoid any mix-ups.

    At that same show, I was told about the strong demand for a retro-kit. For those of you that don't know that term yet, it simply means the ability to install something yourself, akin to 'after market' parts. Rather than a pristine fixture made by a manufacturer, retro kits allow the person to install a few components in an existing set up. So these T5-shaped LED bulbs would soon be available to hobbyists everywhere, thanks to IceCap, Inc. I eagerly awaited their release. Later when I was in Seattle, I met Laura Birenbaum of IceCap who just happened to have them in her vehicle. It was a rainy night, probably between 9 and 10 p.m. Standing under the flipped-up hatch of her SUV (which acted like a giant umbrella) looking at the retro bulb lit up, she was able to demo the lights with a simple power inverter. Passing cars in the parking lot slowed down to see what those many blue dots were. We oohed and aahed and immediately noted how clean they looked, and how they would be easy to maintain.



    Finally they were available, and I was ready to place my order. Unsure how I'd suspend them over my tank, I found myself delaying that purchase until I had a clear picture in my mind. Should they be installed perpendicular to the tank, or parallel with the VHO lighting? Would they replace my beloved VHO super actinic bulbs? Where on earth would they fit otherwise?

    I got a phone call from a Steven Pro of IceCap asking me if I was willing to try out the very lights I was wanting to order. Timing is everything, right? I replied absolutely. He told me that these lights would not replace my VHOs, but that I would be impressed. We agreed on three 2' sections primarily because they would be the easiest to ship compared to longer bulbs. My tank is 6' long, so it seemed logical.

    They arrived in a large flat box, each Retro LED packed in a smaller box lined with Styrofoam. I don't see how a single bulb could ever suffer damage with packaging like this. Each bulb comes with its own power supply. It has a short cord running from one end, and it does not need endcaps. The power supply's 6' cord plugs into the short cord - this is the quick disconnect. Two small white clips are included to affix the bulb over the tank.

    Since our club meeting was coming up, I brought one with me to show to our members. When I plugged it in, there were some delighted reactions from the audience. After the meeting, some members took a closer look. I brought it back home, but still had to come up with a way to install it over my tank, something I would be comfortable with.

    I tried to see how my reef looked under the lighting, but holding it in my hand wasn't a good method since I couldn't stand back to see the results. And there was another hurdle that had to be overcome, in that these are not "retro LEDs" but rather "retro moonlight LEDs". In my head, I kept thinking of these as a better and more economical choice to T5 actinics. After all, LEDs are all the craze lately. When I tried them out with my tanks lighting on, they were invisible. Carefully scrutinizing specific corals, I would rotate the bulb from left to right to see some blue glimmer appear from the LED directional lighting, but could not see it at all. I couldn't see it with only the VHO actinics on either. Apprehensively, I began to wonder how this product review would take shape, based on my initial impression. In the meantime, I still had to come up with a way to hang the lights.

    Saltwater and electricity don't mix, and even low voltage can jolt a person when conditions are right. When I install any lighting over my tank, I want them to be secure. These retro lights would be no different. Laura suggested screwing them to my pendants, but that wasn't an option because mine have a glass panel. What I opted to do was to use an aluminum U-shaped section that could be screwed to the wall. I made sure to place the track where the screw would go through the sheetrock and into the wood behind - it isn't going anywhere, ever. Here's the blog entry with more detail about how they were secured: http://www.reefaddicts.com/entry.php...ghting-Install



    Let me reiterate, these are Moonlights in a nifty T5 tube. They are meant to be used after the lights are off, not during the normal lighting period.

    When you plug them in, there is a half second pause before they light up. I have all three plugged into a power strip and with a single switch turn them on at once. The power supplies are rather large. It would be nice if they could be stacked, similar to how extra strings of Christmas lights are plugged into one another to save space. Using a Kill-o-watt meter, it measured the three bulbs are using a combined total of 10 watts of power. Virtually nothing at all.



    When the metal halides shut off, my tank is bathed in a strong blue glow of VHO lighting for 30 minutes. And when those shut off, the Retro LED Moonlights take over for the next hour. I'd say they are probably running at 15% intensity of what the VHOs produce, which is this soft blue glow that allows the corals to quietly fluoresce. Some of my fish continue to swim around rather than retreating to their favorite spot for the night. I very much enjoy this time, studying how all the different kinds of corals respond to this lighting - corals with orange, red, green, and yellow stand out nicely against the darkened reef. LPS, SPS, the giant Toadstool Leather, they all look remarkably different from what one would see throughout the day.



    After that hour, they are shut off for the night. Corals need time to rest and recharge for the new day.










    The Retro LEDs come in three lengths: 2', 3' and 4'. They retail $60, $80, and $100 respectively. Icecap always takes good care of their customers, so if a warranty-related issue arises, I have no doubt they will take care of it. These come with a three year warranty. LEDs are designed to last for 5 years or more, so this investment is long term, providing latenight and early morning viewing that would otherwise be relegated to darkness. Enjoy the moonlighting - it's worth it.

    These lights were supplied to me free of charge by IceCap, which I must state for legal reasons.
    Comments 9 Comments
    1. cdmorrison01's Avatar
      cdmorrison01 -
      Those led's really make the colors POP. Do you know how many watts each bulb is?
    1. Snakebyt's Avatar
      Snakebyt -
      the orange blob looks great under those
    1. melev's Avatar
      melev -
      There are a few corals that look striking under the moonlights.

      I like the orange and green acans in the front center. And the pink branching hammer coral (left of the Toadstool) has a green section that glows while the other half doesn't have any green at all. The Tongue plate coral on the substrate is another favorite, as well as the pink chalice.
    1. Arvind's Avatar
      Arvind -
      Hi Marc,Nice write up and great pictures as usual. Do you think one row of this LED strip is good enough - for a 24" width of the tank?Arvind.
    1. melev's Avatar
      melev -
      Yes, a 2' light is 20" in length, and will fit over your 24" wide tank.
    1. Terri_Ann's Avatar
      Terri_Ann -
      So you do not advocate leaving moonlights on for 8 hours because the corals need to rest? Is there any scientific data explaining why to not leaving them on for the night? I just assumed it would be okay to leave them on due to natural moonlight over a reef...hmmm.
    1. melev's Avatar
      melev -
      The moon doesn't shine full strength for 8 hours every night in the same spot, just like the sun doesn't blast us all day long. We have a gradual rising of the sun, then the intensity can be felt for a few hours before it tapers off and we cool down again with lots of shadows.

      Same with moon lighting. Keep in mind the moon isn't even a full moon but only one day a month, and with the various phases it goes through, there are nights of total darkness and other nights with limited light.

      There have been presentations giving on LED lighting at MACNA, and one that stuck in my mind was a beautiful reef tank in a fish store that had two corals that looked terrible. They just happened to be in the exact spot where the LED light pinpointed all the time. The bulb uses so little power that the owner didn't see the reason to use a timer and left them plugged in all the time. Thus the corals bleached because they never got a break. That seemed more than a reasonable assumption for me, and frankly I've never used moonlights in all the years I've been in the hobby.

      I'm enjoying the one hour each night after my actinics turn off, but have no issue with my reef being in complete darkness for the majority of the night. Do you stay up all night with your tank? Could you not set the lights to turn off when you slumber and give your corals a break?
    1. Lukinrats's Avatar
      Lukinrats -
      So Marc! Do you think these are not strong enough to supplement halide lighting?
    1. melev's Avatar
      melev -
      No, not at all. With MH lighting on, you won't be able to see them whatsoever. These are called "moonlights" for a reason.