Blog Comments

  1. cyano's Avatar
    I have always wondered if since tank raised corals are more hardy could we actually transplant them back into the ocean with them being more capable of handling the changing climate? and potentially more hardy against human contaminates? or is it all going to die and we are in turn keeping the futures past alive in our homes?
  2. melev's Avatar
    I don't want a long cord, but the skimmer's Swabbie motor has a 6' cord already. Once it is installed on a waste collector, the cord can be shortened for ease of use.

    The collection cup is 3/4 full and I'm watching it today to see if it will shut off as expected.
  3. Midnight's Avatar
    The big black part unscrews to reveal the two terminals or solder points. In your application I would probably use heat shrink with this or even in place of the black part depending on how close to the tank it would be. I would think you would want it close to the skimmer so that you wouldn't have to deal with the long cord hanging when cleaning cup.
  4. melev's Avatar
    I appreciate the input. You are at least the sixth person to offer productive solutions. You are right that something wasn't quite right with the Alarm code, as I had a notification every hour all night at the 58th minute. I just changed that line of code from: If Outlet Skim_Float = OPEN Then ON

    To: If Switch1 OPEN Then ON

    Hopefully that will stop the false email/texts.

    I went ahead and edited the Skimmer code to remove that one line as I agree it does seem redundant. My goal was to make sure the pump was on at all times, except if the float switch has risen.

    Michael, thanks for the suggestion of the plug. I'll see what they have, and how I need to solder that together.
  5. jlemoine2's Avatar
    Ha! Let's see if Marc understands my gibberish before I try to write a clarification. But, I'm willing to bet he is getting email notifications that his Skim_Float Outlet is ON, even when his skimmer cup isn't full.
  6. Midnight's Avatar
    Now I am confused
  7. jlemoine2's Avatar
    Hi Marc,

    Nice work... you can simplify your outlet programming a bit, and I believe your email notification will not work as expected.

    On your skimmer, you only need the "Switch1" code that does the opposite of the default. In this case, your skimmer default is ON as directed by the fallback and set lines. So, the "Switch 1 CLOSED Then ON" line is not needed, as the unit will default to ON. I wonder if that extra switch line is confusing your DEFER command.

    SKIMMER OUTLET:
    Fallback ON
    Set ON
    If Switch1 OPEN Then OFF

    or if you want the Defer command for a 10 second delay before shutting down...

    SKIMMER OUTLET:
    Fallback ON
    Set ON
    If Switch1 OPEN Then OFF
    Defer 000:10 Then OFF

    I'm confused by your Skim_Float outlet code and Email notification. By the looks of your screenshots above, you will get an email when your float switch is closed, which is when the skimmer cup is NOT full (closed switch is in down position). I think you want the opposite. I would leave your email alarm the way it is... when the Skim_Float outlet is ON, then you want the alarm email. But your Float_Skim outlet shows that it will be ON when the switch is CLOSED (down position). Change the Skim_Float outlet to be ON when Switch 1 is OPEN:

    SKIM FLOAT OUTLET:

    Set OFF
    If Switch1 OPEN Then ON

    Just like the skimmer outlet, you don't need the "If Switch1 CLOSED Then OFF" line, as the outlet will default to OFF with the "Set OFF" line.

    If it were me, I'd want the defer line with the float outlet as well. That way, you'll get am email 10 seconds after the switch goes open, which would be about the same time the skimmer shuts down (if you choose to include the defer command on the skimmer).

    I hope this helps and did not confuse things.
  8. Midnight's Avatar
    Marc, Radio shack sells several different power disconnects like these that can be soldered and made permanent. Nice thing about these is these are made for two wires, I use them on cameras power a lot.



    They come apart and go together real easy.
  9. Alaska_Phil's Avatar
    Awesome! Let the fun begin!
  10. reefocd's Avatar
    Marc,

    Did the tank builder only have to rebuild the end of the tank?

    Could you satisfy the technically curious questions I have about your tank in general;

    A) are sides on top or around bottom pane?
    B) I see air bubble between euro brace sandwiched panes, are bottom/top euro panes edged sealed or silicone completely filled between each pane layer?

    If I ever try dual pane euro braces would like a good understanding.

    Thanks!
  11. Hat39406's Avatar
    Just AWESOME!! Can't wait for updates, Marc!
  12. melev's Avatar
    A driver with a forklift delivered it, and we used 14 suction cups to bring it in and onto the stand.
  13. Trido's Avatar
    The tank looks real good back in its home. How many guys did it take to get it off the delivery truck? Four, or a forklift?
  14. melev's Avatar
    Yes, the Eurobracing criss-crosses at all four corners this time, which is why you see doubly stacked glass.

    The inner lip works out well actually. It allows the water to drop in gradually. And not only do I need to make a new cover, I'm going to have to see how the Durso drainpipes fit this time. They may be tighter within.
  15. brotherd's Avatar
    I imagine you will have to make a new overflow cover as well?
  16. brotherd's Avatar
    I'm liking the new re designed overflow. I can't tell from the picture but is the new brace 2 pieces? It looks like there is a strip that underlaps the long braces at the edges. Do you think the ledge below the teeth will be an issue for water flowing into the overflow? Man I can't wait to see it up and running!
  17. BulkHead's Avatar
    Let the fun begin!
  18. cyano's Avatar
    YAY! now that the hard part is done.....
  19. Midnight's Avatar
    Now go fill it up
  20. joeogio's Avatar
    hey glad to see a update on your system! and glad to see that beautiful tank back